Friday, August 5, 2016

God Save America from Donny T ..Why the Republican Party is going to die with #TrumpTheRumpinaHugeSlump



(Alex Wong/Getty Images)



Avik Roy is a Republican’s Republican. A health care wonk and editor at Forbes, he has worked for three Republican presidential hopefuls — Mitt Romney, Rick Perry, and Marco Rubio. Much of his adult life has been dedicated to advancing the Republican Party and conservative ideals.

In a   bar just outside the Republican convention, he said something I’ve never heard from an establishment conservative before: The Grand Old Party is going to die.

“I don’t think the Republican Party and the conservative movement are capable of reforming themselves in an incremental and gradual way,” he said. “There’s going to be a disruption.”

Roy isn’t happy about this: He believes it means the Democrats will dominate national American politics for some time. But he also believes the Republican Party has lost its right to govern, because it is driven by white nationalism rather than a true commitment to equality for all Americans.

“Until the conservative movement can stand up and live by that principle, it will not have the moral authority to lead the country,” he told me.

This is a standard assessment among liberals, but it is frankly shocking to hear from a prominent conservative thinker. Our conversation had the air of a confessional: of Roy admitting that he and his intellectual comrades had gone wrong, had failed, had sinned.

His history of conservatism was a Greek tragedy. It begins with a fatal error in 1964, survived on the willful self-delusion of people like Roy himself, and ended with Donald Trump.


“I think the conservative movement is fundamentally broken,” Roy tells me. “Trump is not a random act. This election is not a random act.”

The conservative movement’s founding error: Barry Goldwater(William Lovelace/Daily Express/Hulton Archive/Getty Images)Barry Goldwater.

The conservative movement has something of a founding myth — Roy calls it an “origin story.”

In 1955, William F. Buckley created the intellectual architecture of modern conservatism by founding National Review, focusing on a free market, social conservatism, and a muscular foreign policy. Buckley’s ideals found purchase in the Republican Party in 1964, with the nomination of Barry Goldwater. While Goldwater lost the 1964 general election, his ideas eventually won out in the GOP, culminating in the Reagan Revolution of 1980.

Normally, Goldwater’s defeat is spun as a story of triumph: how the conservative movement eventually righted the ship of an unprincipled GOP. But according to Roy, it’s the first act of a tragedy.

“Goldwater’s nomination in 1964 was a historical disaster for the conservative movement,” Roy tells me, “because for the ensuing decades, it identified Democrats as the party of civil rights and Republicans as the party opposed to civil rights.”“THE GRAVITATIONAL CENTER OF THE REPUBLICAN PARTY IS WHITE NATIONALISM”

Goldwater opposed the Civil Rights Act of 1964. He himself was not especially racist — he believed it was wrong, on free market grounds, for the federal government to force private businesses to desegregate. But this “principled” stance identified the GOP with the pro-segregation camp in everyone’s eyes, while the Democrats under Lyndon Johnson became the champions of anti-racism.

This had a double effect, Roy says. First, it forced black voters out of the GOP. Second, it invited in white racists who had previously been Democrats. Even though many Republicans voted for the Civil Rights Act in Congress, the post-Goldwater party became the party of aggrieved whites.

“The fact is, today, the Republican coalition has inherited the people who opposed the Civil Rights Act of 1964 — the Southern Democrats who are now Republicans,” Roy says. “Conservatives and Republicans have not come to terms with that problem.”
Conservative intellectuals were blind to the truth about the GOP — hence Trump(William B. Plowman/NBC/NBC News/Getty Images)Avik Roy (L) discusses Obamacare on television.

The available evidence compiled by historians and political scientists suggests that 1964 really was a pivotal political moment, in exactly the way Roy describes.

Yet Republican intellectuals have long denied this, fabricating a revisionist history in which Republicans were and always have been the party of civil rights. In 2012, National Review ran a lengthy cover story arguing that the standard history recounted by Roy was “popular but indefensible.”

This revisionism, according to Roy, points to a much bigger conservative delusion: They cannot admit that their party’s voters are motivated far more by white identity politics than by conservative ideals.

“Conservative intellectuals, and conservative politicians, have been in kind of a bubble,” Roy says. “We’ve had this view that the voters were with us on conservatism — philosophical, economic conservatism. In reality, the gravitational center of the Republican Party is white nationalism.”

Conservative intellectuals, for the most part, are horrified by racism. When they talk about believing in individual rights and equality, they really mean it. Because the Republican Party is the vehicle through which their ideas can be implemented, they need to believe that the party isn’t racist.

So they deny the party’s racist history, that its post-1964 success was a direct result of attracting whites disillusioned by the Democrats’ embrace of civil rights. And they deny that to this day, Republican voters are driven more by white resentment than by a principled commitment to the free market and individual liberty.

“It’s the power of wishful thinking. None of us want to accept that opposition to civil rights is the legacy that we’ve inherited,” Roy says.

He expands on this idea: “It’s a common observation on the left, but it’s an observation that a lot of us on the right genuinely believed wasn’t true — which is that conservatism has become, and has been for some time, much more about white identity politics than it has been about conservative political philosophy. I think today, even now, a lot of conservatives have not come to terms with that problem.”

This, Roy believes, is where the conservative intellectual class went astray. By refusing to admit the truth about their own party, they were powerless to stop the forces that led to Donald Trump’s rise. They told themselves, over and over again, that Goldwater’s victory was a triumph.

But in reality, it created the conditions under which Trump could thrive. Trump’s politics of aggrieved white nationalism — labeling black people criminals, Latinos rapists, and Muslims terrorists — succeeded because the party’s voting base was made up of the people who once opposed civil rights.

“[Trump] tapped into something that was latent in the Republican Party and conservative movement — but a lot of people in the conservative movement didn’t notice,” Roy concludes, glumly.
For conservatism to live, the conservative movement has to die(Bill Clark/CQ Roll Cal)A sign with one of the RNC’s most popular slogans.

Over beers, I ask Roy how he feels about all of this personally. His answer is very sad.

“When Marco [Rubio] lost, I went through the five stages of grief. It was tough. I had to spend some time thinking about what to do for the next several years of my life,” he says.

“I left a comforting and rewarding career as a biotech investor to do this kind of work. I did it because I felt it was important, and I care about the country. Maybe it’s cheesy to say that, but I really sincerely do,” he continues. “So then, okay, what do I do? Do I do the same things I’ve been doing for the last four years? To me, just to do that to collect a paycheck didn’t make a lot of sense.”

This soul-searching led Roy to an uncomfortable conclusion: The Republican Party, and the conservative movement that propped it up, is doomed.

Both are too wedded to the politics of white nationalism to change how they act, but that just isn’t a winning formula in a nation that’s increasingly black and brown. Either the Republican Party will eat itself or a new party will rise and overtake its voting share.

“Either the disruption will come from the Republican Party representing cranky old white people and a new right-of-center party emerging in its place, or a third party will emerge, à la the Republicans emerging from the Whigs in the [1850s],” Roy says.

The work of conservative intellectuals today, he argues, is to devise a new conservatism — a political vision that adheres to limited government principles but genuinely appeals to a more diverse America.

“I think it’s incredibly important to take stock,” he says, “and build a new conservative movement that is genuinely about individual liberty.”

I don’t know how this would work. I don’t think Roy knows either.

For the entire history of modern conservatism, its ideals have been wedded to and marred by white supremacism. That’s Roy’s own diagnosis, and I think it’s correct. As a result, we have literally no experience in America of a politically viable conservative movement unmoored from white supremacy.

I’ve read dozens of conservative intellectuals writing compellingly about non-racist conservative ideals. Writers like Andrew Sullivan, Ross Douthat, Reihan Salam, Michael Brendan Dougherty, and too many others to count have put forward visions of a conservative party quite different from the one we have.

But not one of these writers, smart as they are, has been able to explain what actual political constituency could bring about this pure conservatism in practice. The fact is that limited government conservatism is not especially appealing to nonwhite Americans, whereas liberalism and social democracy are. The only ones for whom conservatism is a natural fit are Roy’s “cranky old white people” — and they’re dying off.

Maybe Roy and company will be able to solve this problem. I hope they do. America needs a viable, intellectually serious right-of-center party.

Because we now know what the alternative looks like. It’s Donald Trump.

Thursday, August 4, 2016

The Garden Terrace, The Waldorf Astoria Hotel, Gershon Agron St. 26, Jerusalem. Tel. (02) 542-3333.

Cocktails under the stars

The innovations continue at the award-winning Waldorf Astoria, as the Garden Terrace celebrated its grand opening. The lounge and promenade area transforms the rooftop of the restored historical section of the building that was once the eminent Palace Hotel into an ideal setting for relaxing with creative cocktails, gourmet tapas and even imported cigars.

The Garden Terrace basks in the cool air of Jerusalem’s evenings, above the bustle of the streets below and overlooking the eastern flank of Independence Park. The venue itself boasts its own greenery, creating an atmosphere of tranquility.


The Garden Terrace features a well-stocked bar with its own specialty cocktail menu and an internationally curated cigar collection. Additionally, the hotel’s Executive Chef Itzik Barak has designed a distinctive menu of Mediterranean-inspired tapas dishes to be enjoyed in this unique al fresco area.

The tapas here comprise a full range of vegetarian, meat and fish dishes, including veal spareribs, lamb kebab, ceviche, and a truly inspired upgrade of traditional meatballs, which are battered in a beer-infused tempura and served with pepper cream.


The Garden Terrace is the third restaurant to be located in the hotel, after The King’s Court (adjacent to the main lobby), and The Palace, dedicated to fine dining.

The restaurant is open Sunday-Thursday, from 18.00 to 23.00.

The Garden Terrace, The Waldorf Astoria Hotel, Gershon Agron St. 26, Jerusalem. Tel. (02) 542-3333.

Anna, Beit Ticho, Harav Agan Street 10, Jerusalem. Tel. (02) 543-4144.


The Beit Ticho annex of the Israel Museum has always been a tranquil oasis in the heart of downtown Jerusalem, as well as the home of a well regarded restaurant. While the building was undergoing significant and lengthy refurbishment in recent years, the restaurant Little Jerusalem reinvented itself as Piccolino in Nahalat Shiva, and a search began for a kosher restaurant that would replace it. Fortunately, when Ticho House reopened this spring, tradition was preserved: there is a small park that is a welcome patch of green just a block from busy Yafo Road, and a new cafe named Anna that serves Italian cuisine.

  • Anna is more than just a restaurant, however, it is a business with the added dimension of giving back to society. Backed by the Dualis Social Investment Fund, whose flagship restaurant is Liliyot in Tel Aviv, Anna employs at-risk youth and trains them in a respected profession, with the active involvement of a staff social worker.

The restaurant is so new there is still not a single sign anywhere; Anna occupies the entire second floor of the museum, including an al fresco seating area on the veranda, plus a room for private functions. The kitchen, however, is in the hands of seasoned professionals, formerly of the vaunted Machneyuda group—experience that is reflected both in the quality of the food and the excellent service.

Spinach ricotta ravioli
Spinach ricotta ravioli

As we perused the bilingual menu and wine list—which is more extensive than one expects from a dairy restaurant in Jerusalem—we munched on grissini and sipped white sangria. The thin breadsticks were served with dips of crème fraîche and zesty pesto, both swimming in olive oil, while the sangria was served in a small carafe jampacked with chunks of fruit and fresh mint.

We chose two appetizers in which vegetables were the star: roasted zucchini with feta cheese seasoned with oregano and chili, and asparagus topped with a mound of pecorino cheese, toasted hazelnuts, and grilled onion and tomato; both presented us with wonderful interplay of flavors.

Our pasta choices were the spinach ricotta ravioli and the pumpkin risotto. According to the menu, the ravioli was simply “aglio e olio”—but in fact it comes with grilled tomato, cherry tomato and onion, which complemented nicely the fat pillows of well seasoned filled pasta. The risotto, meanwhile, was redolent of pumpkin both in pieces and puréed, and enhanced with leeks and shaved pecorino, adding up to a creamy and delicious entrée.

Pumpkin risotto
Pumpkin risotto

For dessert we sampled the tiramisu—piled particularly high with frothy whipped cream—and the chocolate cremeux, layered atop chocolate cake and accompanied by slivered almonds and cocoa crumble. The excellent desserts, washed down with freshly brewed cappuccino, reinforced our impression that whether you are in the mood for a good meal or just dessert and coffee, Anna certainly fills the bill.

Anna, Beit Ticho, Harav Agan Street 10, Jerusalem. Tel. (02) 543-4144.

Aluma Restaurant , Crown Plaza Hotel , 1 Haáliya Street, Jerusalem


Aluma in the capital is classy, comfortable and kosher.


A longtime staple on the Jerusalem culinary scene, the Kohinoor Indian restaurant at the venerable Crowne Plaza Hotel is no more. Over the last few months, more than NIS 3 million has been invested in transforming the 200-meter space into Aluma, an elegantly comfortable kosher chef’s restaurant that opened its doors just before Passover.

Upscale but warm and welcoming, the 180-seat venue is hoping to establish itself as the go-to restaurant for those that seek strict kashrut standards but want a gourmet experience.

To achieve that goal, chef Michael Katz was recruited from his home at the Haba Trattoria in the Mahaneh Yehuda market to create a sumptuous meat and fish-laden menu at Aluma (under the Mahfout hechsher).

Katz, who has trained in Michelin-star restaurants, taught at Cordon Bleu in London and is a member of the Belgian association of Master Chefs, has applied the same care, attention to detail and expertise that he invested for three years in Haba’s dairy menu to Aluma’s array of appealing creations.

The chef sees his mission of providing world-class cuisine within the parameters of kashrut as more of a challenge than a restriction. A recent sampling of some of his dishes confirmed that he not only met the challenge but surpassed expectations of what can be accomplished with inspired recipes, creativity and finesse.

Katz and his staff, which includes Australian-born chef Scott Charles, experimented with ingredients and recipes until they were satisfied that their fare wasn’t “great for kosher food” but simply “great.”

All the dishes were a sight to behold, with Katz focusing on the visual appeal, not just the taste quotient. Some of the items were so dazzling to look at, that it was almost a shame to dig into them.


Almost….

Our repast, selected by Katz, began with the fish soup (NIS 42), described on the menu as bouillabaisse style, with a touch of coconut cream. The thick orange broth, stocked generously with chunks of salmon and drumfish, was delicious, with the coconut tinge adding a Thai element.

That was followed by crusted tuna roll (NIS 46), a tasty variation on sushi, with lettuce used instead of seaweed. The delicate breading complemented the fresh, supple tuna, which was served with a cucumber and tapioca mint salad and wasabi cream.

Another starter was the cured trout Gravlax style, with beetroot and light horseradish cream (NIS 42) – Gravlax being the Nordic style of curing raw fish in salt and sugar. With a texture and taste like salmon without the smoky element, the dish was a delight, and the cream added a bright tang.

The final starter brought our way was a Middle Eastern treat, the warm sabich salad (NIS 38). It consisted of roasted eggplant, tomatoes, chickpeas, tahini, harissa and a crispy poached egg that our server pierced at the table, releasing the yolk. The rich blend of tastes made this a highlight. But for those with a limited appetite, be warned that this is a filling dish.

And it would be a shame to miss out on the main dishes. Katz suggested the crusted salmon with shallots, red wine sauce and sautéed mushrooms (NIS 98) – a tribute to his mentor, Belgian chef Attilo Basso. The medallions of succulent salmon were wrapped in delicate phyllo pastry. A forkful combined with the wine-soaked mushrooms was more than satisfying – subtle and not overpowering – and the rest of the forkfuls went down just as easily.

Our other main dish was grilled entrecote with confit of garlic Hollandaise, crisp potatoes and green beans (NIS 138). Katz explained that in order to prepare the kosher meat in the optimal manner that results in a tender, juicy cut, he heats it on a very low heat for 13 hours before grilling it for a few minutes.

The reverse searing method worked marvelously, as the sliced steak was soft and flavorful. The oversized fries and the string beans were adequate, but one would have hoped the steak had been accompanied by more adventurous side dishes.

The array of desserts was impressive, with selections like tapioca in a mango cream with wild fruit marmalade, carmelized pistachios and apricot foam (NIS 36) or crepes Madeline – thin crepes filled with orange zest cream (NIS 42). But we went with our hearts and chose the chocoholic’s only possibility – the chocolate and espresso mousse served with cocoa crumble, wild berry marmalade and chocolate sorbet (NIS 36). It tasted as good as it sounds, without being too heavy or overwhelming. Almost as refreshing was the apple in salted caramel with banana and acai sorbet (NIS 38), a terrific variation on apple pie.

Aluma also has an extensive wine and mixed drink menu from the amply stocked bar, as well as wonderful espresso to end the meal.

Chef Katz has succeeded in his quest to create a kosher dining experience that doesn’t skimp on taste, presentation or quality.

Aluma can join the ranks of topquality kosher establishments that the capital can be proud to call its own.


Aluma
Crowne Plaza Hotel
1 Ha’aliya Street, Jerusalem
Tel: (02) 643-7555


Sunday to Thursday, noon until last customer;
Friday, 11 a.m. to two hours before Shabbat
; Saturday, one hour after Shabbat

Wednesday, August 3, 2016

Rama's Kitchen, Nataf, DN Jerusalem Hills 90804

The weird, glittery delicacy that grows in Mediterranean dunes
Chef Tomer Niv prepares exotic dishes made with the 
almost-forgotten ice plant, found in abundance near the Mediterranean shore.

The fleshy stalks of the plant that dots the rocky hills are covered with sparkling crystals. Their resemblance to icicles is reflected in the plant’s various popular names – common ice plant, crystalline ice plant or simply ice plant. The glistening “crystals” of Mesembryanthemum crystallinum are really water vesicles to which sea salt has adhered, and are part of a natural mechanism for ridding the plant of excess salt, as the plant’s natural habitat is a narrow, windblown area close to the Mediterranean.

An ice plant. Dan Peretz
“Some people grow this plant to use its leaves like spinach or as a green in a salad,” wrote Prof. Amotz Dafni in his book “Hadudaim Natnu Reham” (University of Haifa Press), a splendid collection of folklore and medicinal and nutritional uses for native plants. These days, the taste of this plant has been virtually forgotten, as its habitat has been shrinking to make way for new high-rises. But in recent weeks, ice plant has been featured in a number of dishes served by chef Tomer Niv at the Rama’s Kitchen restaurant in Nataf, in the Jerusalem hills. These include raw grouper sashimi surrounded by a shimmering crown of ice plant leaves; a tartare with loquats, green plums and ice plant stalks; blue crabs with cherry and ice plant gazpacho; salt-baked Jerusalem artichoke with whipped labaneh and ice plant.
It is early morning by the Jaffa harbor. Niv, taking his usual daily route from his home in the Ajami neighborhood to the fishermen’s warehouses by the ancient port, is horrified to discover that the day before, the city mowed the whole field of ice plants on a slope next to the luxury neighborhoods that have been sprouting up by the coastline. Just a couple of days ago, this slope was carpeted with the glittering plants. A tiny number of plants remain in a small corner of this area, once wild sand dunes that will apparently soon be transformed into a neat city park. Niv gets down on his knees and uses scissors to cut some fresh leaves and stems.

Jerusalem artichoke with whipped labaneh and ice plant. Dan Peretz
Enhancing fish 
and seafood
Niv first encountered this exotic plant, used in the kitchens of upscale restaurants in various countries, working in a French restaurant in London. “They would use it in dishes like beef fillet, but mainly it was used with lobster, scallops and fish,” he says. “One of the plant’s key characteristics is its ability to enhance the flavor of fish and seafood. It has a crunchy texture that adds to the experience when you’re eating a soft and tender fish, and its fresh salty, lemony flavor doesn’t overpower the flavor of the fish or seafood. When you eat it by itself, it’s kind of like tasting water with salt, and the crystallization of the salt is somewhat reminiscent of the taste of an oyster – that dull saltiness of the sea.”
Ice plant is in season from February to June. “Last year was the first time I noticed that it grows here,” says Niv. “So this year I was ready and waiting for it. It was nice to follow it through all the stages of its development and to taste the stalks, the leaves and the flower buds throughout the season. The stage we’re at now, just before the plant is covered with white flowers, is the tastiest, I think.”

Grouper sashimi with ice plant leaves. Dan Peretz
Niv picks some wild chrysanthemums to add to his basket. “I think wildflowers have gotten a bad rap lately, because of their overuse by local cooks and chefs, but the taste of flowers that grow in nature is quite different than domesticated plants grown in greenhouses. Each one has a distinctive flavor or texture and they are not just for garnish.” Niv studied cooking and food technology in London and worked for a year in the famous laboratory of British chef Heston Blumenthal. He dreams of starting his own laboratory, like the one established by chef Rene Redzepi of the Noma restaurant in Copenhagen, which methodically examines ingredients in Nordic cuisines. Niv’s lab would study ingredients native to this area and those used in Mediterranean cuisine.

Rama's Kitchen, Nataf, DN Jerusalem Hills 90804

The weird, glittery delicacy that grows in Mediterranean dunes
Chef Tomer Niv prepares exotic dishes made with the 
almost-forgotten ice plant, found in abundance near the Mediterranean shore.

The fleshy stalks of the plant that dots the rocky hills are covered with sparkling crystals. Their resemblance to icicles is reflected in the plant’s various popular names – common ice plant, crystalline ice plant or simply ice plant. The glistening “crystals” of Mesembryanthemum crystallinum are really water vesicles to which sea salt has adhered, and are part of a natural mechanism for ridding the plant of excess salt, as the plant’s natural habitat is a narrow, windblown area close to the Mediterranean.

An ice plant. Dan Peretz
“Some people grow this plant to use its leaves like spinach or as a green in a salad,” wrote Prof. Amotz Dafni in his book “Hadudaim Natnu Reham” (University of Haifa Press), a splendid collection of folklore and medicinal and nutritional uses for native plants. These days, the taste of this plant has been virtually forgotten, as its habitat has been shrinking to make way for new high-rises. But in recent weeks, ice plant has been featured in a number of dishes served by chef Tomer Niv at the Rama’s Kitchen restaurant in Nataf, in the Jerusalem hills. These include raw grouper sashimi surrounded by a shimmering crown of ice plant leaves; a tartare with loquats, green plums and ice plant stalks; blue crabs with cherry and ice plant gazpacho; salt-baked Jerusalem artichoke with whipped labaneh and ice plant.
It is early morning by the Jaffa harbor. Niv, taking his usual daily route from his home in the Ajami neighborhood to the fishermen’s warehouses by the ancient port, is horrified to discover that the day before, the city mowed the whole field of ice plants on a slope next to the luxury neighborhoods that have been sprouting up by the coastline. Just a couple of days ago, this slope was carpeted with the glittering plants. A tiny number of plants remain in a small corner of this area, once wild sand dunes that will apparently soon be transformed into a neat city park. Niv gets down on his knees and uses scissors to cut some fresh leaves and stems.

Jerusalem artichoke with whipped labaneh and ice plant. Dan Peretz
Enhancing fish 
and seafood
Niv first encountered this exotic plant, used in the kitchens of upscale restaurants in various countries, working in a French restaurant in London. “They would use it in dishes like beef fillet, but mainly it was used with lobster, scallops and fish,” he says. “One of the plant’s key characteristics is its ability to enhance the flavor of fish and seafood. It has a crunchy texture that adds to the experience when you’re eating a soft and tender fish, and its fresh salty, lemony flavor doesn’t overpower the flavor of the fish or seafood. When you eat it by itself, it’s kind of like tasting water with salt, and the crystallization of the salt is somewhat reminiscent of the taste of an oyster – that dull saltiness of the sea.”
Ice plant is in season from February to June. “Last year was the first time I noticed that it grows here,” says Niv. “So this year I was ready and waiting for it. It was nice to follow it through all the stages of its development and to taste the stalks, the leaves and the flower buds throughout the season. The stage we’re at now, just before the plant is covered with white flowers, is the tastiest, I think.”

Grouper sashimi with ice plant leaves. Dan Peretz
Niv picks some wild chrysanthemums to add to his basket. “I think wildflowers have gotten a bad rap lately, because of their overuse by local cooks and chefs, but the taste of flowers that grow in nature is quite different than domesticated plants grown in greenhouses. Each one has a distinctive flavor or texture and they are not just for garnish.” Niv studied cooking and food technology in London and worked for a year in the famous laboratory of British chef Heston Blumenthal. He dreams of starting his own laboratory, like the one established by chef Rene Redzepi of the Noma restaurant in Copenhagen, which methodically examines ingredients in Nordic cuisines. Niv’s lab would study ingredients native to this area and those used in Mediterranean cuisine.

Captain Curry Restaurant, Sarona Market, 3 Kalman Magen Street , Tel Aviv,


Radical Indian Street Food Comes to Tel Aviv's Upscale Sarona Market.Finally, a good reason to head to Sarona: Roshfeld’s Captain Curry.



Raja Mun beef at Captain Curry.


Not that it’s anything new, but it’s always nice to be reminded of how Tel Aviv so easily blurs the lines between high and low when it comes to the food choices the city has to offer. You can grab a 10-shekel slice of pizza on the street or enjoy a 65-shekel pizetta at a trendy bar. You can bite into a delicious shwarma in a pita from a local shwarma joint, or dine on shwarma served up with molecular amba jelly at a fancy chef restaurant. You can enjoy some cheap burekas from the Carmel Market or nibble on some pricier ones in the market at the Tel Aviv Port. I could go on, but you get the point.
And yet, one type of cuisine has seemed to remain the sole domain of restaurants – Indian food. And this is rather peculiar when you consider that, for the past couple of decades or so, Israeli Gen Xers have been traipsing back and forth to India, photographing it and writing about it and coming up with a whole unique, New-Agey lingo about it. But Indian food? You can hardly find it. And Indian street food? Forget about it. There may have been a few attempts here and there, but none lasted very long. All we have pretty much are a few longtime establishments and some adaptations by various chefs in their restaurants.

Chef Yonatan Roshfeld’s new Indian street food stall, Captain Curry.
In a way, it’s easy to understand. Indian food tends to inspire a dichotomy – you’re either really into it or really not into it. There’s no middle ground. And that’s a problem, because Tel Aviv street food stalls generally aim to appeal to a broad common denominator. That’s certainly their right. So it’s rather symbolic that Captain Curry, chef Yonatan Roshfeld’s new Indian street food stall, opened recently at Sarona Market, taking over the location of the decidedly average Gina Falafel.


The menu at Captain Curry is a bit limited compared to the standard restaurant, but it does offer a wider selection than many of the other food stalls in the market. The chota (“small”) category includes six appetizers (9-39 shekels); there are four main courses inspired by “the Captain’s childhood memories” (52-56 shekels); biryani lamb and chicken (62 shekels) that gets a section unto itself – “From the Palace Kitchen.” In keeping with Indian culinary traditions, and in the spirit of the times, some of the dishes are vegan.

Tasty wings

For starters, we ordered the Goa Beach chicken wings
(28 shekels for a small portion, 38 shekels for a large portion). They were served in a plain tin foil pan set atop one of the prettiest take-away trays I’ve seen in the city, along with cutlery in a colorful cloth bag. There was plenty of sauce and plenty of fresh cilantro, but not so many wings. Just four half-wings, to be precise. Without considering the price, that is a very small amount. And considering the price, it’s downright aggravating. Luckily for me, and for them, I can’t remember when I’ve enjoyed such tasty wings anywhere. They were quite meaty and tender, and grilled just right before they were slathered, or flooded, with a sauce made of yogurt, mango and coconut. Each taste brought a pleasurable deliberation over whether it was more sweet or more spicy, and I ultimately decided that it didn’t matter, it was just so incredibly good. After finishing the chicken, I had a nice amount of sauce left, and I thought of going to one of the local bakeries and getting some bread to sop up every drop with.

Tandoori at Captain Curry.


But I decided instead to go for a main course of Tandoori chicken. Laid across a reasonably
sized bowl were two skewers of chicken that was pinkish-red from its seasonings, and drizzled with a little sour cream. The bowl was filled with white rice mixed with cilantro, fried chickpeas, minced red onion and a little red masala sauce. How inventive can one be with a chicken skewer at this point? Just a few weeks ago I was disappointed by the skewers of chicken tenders in the Ramen soup at Miazaki in Shuk Tzafon (North Market), so I came in with lowered expectations. But once again, I was very pleasantly surprised. The chunks of meat on the skewers were quite large and very tender and juicy and flavorful. With the first one, I couldn’t resist eating the whole thing right off the skewer. I gently mixed the meat from the second skewer in with the rice. I can’t vouch for how aesthetic it turned out, but it sure was delicious, with each of the ingredients making itself felt in just the right way.

Another main course was Raja Mun Beef with Egg Yolk and Hot Green Peppers (56 shekels). I’m no expert here, but I wouldn’t be surprised to see this dish become a major hit on Instagram. Atop a bed of white rice comes a dish of shredded beef, black lentils, fried onions in a chickpea flour tempura, and red hot chili peppers (apparently in place of the green ones listed on the menu). In the center of the bowl was the pale orange yolk, and on the side is a crisp round disc made from chickpea flour. It’s quite lovely to behold, and more important, quite tasty to eat. The yolk is beaten and mixed in with the rest, perfectly offsetting the spiciness of the dish. This, too, was a successful, rich and filling dish – which is all the more welcome as the prices here are a bit on the steep side.

The food at Captain Curry is not completely authentic. It is Roshfeld’s take on the boundless variety of Indian street food. And it bears pointing out that he is not aiming to please the average taste buds either. The food is seriously seasoned, the Indian flavors are dominant, and nearly every dish is at least somewhat spicy. In fact, you could say this is the most radical food stall in the Sarona Market. And this is a point worth lingering over – In my previous visits to the covered market, I found food that I liked a lot and food that I wasn’t so keen on, but no matter how good, none of it really stood out as being so different from what you could pretty easily find elsewhere in the city. Captain Curry is the first place here that really feels unique, and it does so in a very good way. That alone makes this captain worth saluting.


Captain Curry
Sarona Market
1 Kalman Magen Street
Tel Aviv