26 Hamburger Gourmet (Not kosher). 26 Mikveh Yisrael St., Tel Aviv. Tel: (03) 600-5109.

Hamburgers get respect at Burger Saloon and 26 Hamburger Gourmet.

26 Hamburger Gourmet. (photo credit:PR)

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The term “farm to table” is a phrase fashionable restaurants like to use to characterize the freshness of their ingredients. Now a new hamburger chain has adopted a similar slogan – “from pasture to table” – to describe the uniqueness of its product: the Wild Burger, from Burger Saloon, a subsidiary of Limousine in the Galilee, reputed to be one of Israel’s finest meat restaurants.

The Burger Saloon branch that is closest to Tel Aviv is in Ramat Hasharon. New franchises are planned for other suburbs, but nothing is on the drawing board yet for the city itself. The chain, which describes its food service as “fast casual,” has anything but a casual approach to the quality of its beef. Sirloin cuts are delivered fresh every morning from the Limousine ranch in Ramat Yishai, and then ground just before being grilled and served to customers, who are invited to observe the whole process in the open kitchen.

It is not just the burgers that are made in-house. All the condiments are made from scratch, and the buns – available as white, wheat and gluten-free – are baked in front of your eyes. Moreover, all burgers are cooked to order. If you don’t specify a preference, they are grilled medium-well.

The classic Wild Burger comes in two sizes: 160 grams (NIS 37) or 220 grams (NIS 43). Burger Saloon’s cheeseburgers (NIS 45/51) are rather unique: Tnuva’s Naama processed cheese is inside the patty, such that the melted cheese oozes out when you cut (or bite) into the burger. We quite appreciated this upgrade. (Roquefort, outside the patty, is the other cheese option.)

Burger Saloon’s side dishes are the usual: French fries (NIS 11); onion rings (NIS 14), which are unfortunately made from frozen; a green salad (NIS 12) dressed with a citrus vinaigrette; and a cabbage salad with caraway seeds (NIS 9) in an Asian dressing.

The emphasis on home-grown beef notwithstanding, a particularly laudable characteristic of Burger Saloon is the extensive selection of alternative burgers. There is a turkey burger (NIS 39) labeled fat-free, as well as a similar pullet burger (NIS 39), that are both surprisingly good; a healthful salmon burger (NIS 44) that is virtually all fish and hardly any filler; and a soy burger (NIS 39) made with concentrated vegetable stock that elevates this vegetarian burger to among the best in its class.

The Sloppy Joes (NIS 42) are quite different from any found anywhere else. The beef version is smothered in pepper cream sauce and served in a ciabatta roll, while the stir-fried sloppy chicken (NIS 42) is seasoned with the house’s distinctive sweet lemon-chili sauce. We enjoyed both, as well as another dish unique to Burger Saloon: Argentine falafel (NIS 46) – beef meatballs served with the house aioli.

The only two desserts were pre-packaged, fast-food style: chocolate mousse with a topping of ganache (NIS 15) and the Burger Saloon proprietary “zebra” (NIS 10/15) – a cream cheese mousse with petit beurre cookies and a chocolate glaze. Both made for a sweet and light finish to the meal.

Even though the regular menu is suitable for the entire family, the chain also offers kids’ meals. In addition, Burger Saloon promotes a “noon deal,” starting at NIS 53 for a burger, fries and beer.

Burger Saloon (Not kosher). 111 Sokolov St., Ramat Hasharon. Tel: 1-700-705-715.

Vive le burger!

Just about the polar opposite of Burger Saloon’s slick corporate decor is 26 Hamburger Gourmet’s mis’edet po’alim ambience. Metal card tables and spartan wooden chairs comprise the basic seating arrangements, which belie the truly epicurean ingredients incorporated into all six hamburgers on the menu.

Not surprisingly, the eatery – which is modest in appearance only – is the brainchild of French olah Myriam Benarouche. The Gallic influence is reflected throughout, especially in the signature dish: La Truffe (NIS 66), hamburger with smoked goose breast in a truffle sauce, garnished with a Parmesan tuile. It is also topped with a mound of crispy shoestring sweet potato fries, which were superfluous to the rich, lavishly endowed hamburger.

As expected, there is a foie gras hamburger on the menu as well, along with other tempting choices. We selected the Raclette (NIS 60) – a hamburger smothered in melted raclette cheese, with chopped chives, onion confit and an arugula leaf. The toasted bun was moistened with an unusual mayonnaise-based barbecue sauce, complementing an already succulent and satisfying hamburger.

The side dishes and condiments made from scratch were prepared with similar attention to detail. 26 Hamburger Gourmet’s trademark sweet potato fries (NIS 15) are paired with Roquefort sauce; the French fries (NIS 13) with garlic mayonnaise; and the onion rings (NIS 15) with tartar sauce – although they are also good with the house ketchup. In fact, the onion rings were the best I have had in this country: generous slices of sweet white onion dipped in beer batter and fried to perfection.

The house salad (NIS 16) was also excellent: mixed greens, arugula, apple, almond and blue cheese, lightly dressed in a slightly sweet vinaigrette.

The house beverage is sweet tea, served cold but not iced, which is complimentary with business lunches. This being a French establishment, of course, there are two French wines – a rosé and a red – to choose from, as well as a fine domestic craft beer. During weekday Happy Hours (4 to 7 p.m.), a beer and a burger cost NIS 60.

Desserts (NIS 25) were predictably continental: crème brûlée, and a chocolate mousse with slivered almonds that managed to be simultaneously fluffy in consistency and dense in flavor.

26 Hamburger Gourmet is a place for burger connoisseurs (while their vegetarian companions have the option of a mozzarella steak with sun-dried tomatoes and pesto), who can enjoy creations that cost a third less than you would expect to pay for much the same thing elsewhere. An indulgence that is guilt-free budget-wise, even if not in the calorie or cholesterol department.

26 Hamburger Gourmet (Not kosher). 26 Mikveh Yisrael St., Tel Aviv. Tel: (03) 600-5109.

Tapeo Restaurant.16. tel: (03) 624-0484.

Tapeo. (photo credit:PR)

Bursting with life, Tel Aviv’s veteran tapas bar Tapeo typifies Spanish dining culture. The design, the food and the music create an ambience that instantly transports one to Europe.

The service was first class, as we were immediately greeted by our bartender, who talked us through the new cocktail list and menu.

The menu is divided into five types of tapas: vegetarian, ceviche, paella, seafood and meat. The prices are reasonable but the portions are small, so you may run up a bigger bill than you expect (about three or four plates per person if you’re hungry).

While waiting for our dinner, we were presented with two delicious cocktails. I tried the ginger beerbased Russky Mule (NIS 52), while my dining partner had the vodkabased Crystal (NIS 44). We were very happy campers.

Our starters began with the fried cauliflower in anchovy sauce (NIS 30). I don’t always love cauliflower, but this was crisp, flavorful and cooked just right.

Definitely a must have! This was followed by the croaker ceviche (NIS 44) served with green peppers, avocado, roasted almonds in a chili vinaigrette. I’m a sucker for a good ceviche, and this place delivers that. It was an incredible fusion of sweet, spicy and citric. The fish in the ceviche was very fresh, and the sauce was potent and flavorful without overpowering the fish.

Next up was the roasted beet carpaccio (NIS 28), which was a gorgeous deep red color, looking almost like a beef carpaccio. It came topped with salsa verde but wasn’t overdressed and was scattered with a mild goat cheese and pine nuts. I always appreciate when chefs don’t try to overdo certain dishes that allow the produce to shine.

We were then served the grilled octopus with mini crispy potatoes (NIS 40). The dish had a light and zesty taste, with a very nice grill charring to give the octopus a flavor not usually found in seafood.

In between, we were treated to a small pitcher of the house sangria. I prefer my sangria to have a subtle taste of fruity sweetness with a bolder wine taste. Tapeo balanced the flavors perfectly, with crunchy apple bits in it.

After a bit of a breather, we were presented with the Solomillo (NIS 46) – aged sirloin steak cut into cubes drizzled with green garlic sauce and demi glaze. The sauce complemented the sirloin very well. Not too overwhelming, not too salty or too sweet. It didn’t detract from the flavor of the steak like you might expect.

Next up was the Cordero (NIS 34) – lamb kebab with pine nuts, mint and chipotle tehini. This was absolutely delicious. The kebabs were perfectly seasoned and tenderized, which gave them great flavor, and the tehini was delicious.

Last was the mini hamburger (NIS 32) with garlic aioli, chimichurri and topped with a crisp onion ring. I‘m all for savoring and taking small bites of my food, but I gobbled that up in two bites! It was so good. The patty was cooked to a perfect medium, and the bun was nicely toasted.

We ordered hot drinks and took another breather. Then came dessert. We opted for the heavenly decadent chocolate mousse cake and the churros, which is a traditional Spanish dessert. Both were relatively small but rich enough that a few bites sufficed to satisfy our sweet tooth.

I wish there were more places like Tapeo. They are not trying to be anything but themselves – tasty tapas without jacked-up prices, and that’s all.

Tapeo (Not kosher ).16. tel: (03) 624-0484.

Chinese Wall (Kosher). 26 Mikveh Israel St., Tel Aviv. Tel: (03) 560-3974.

Chinese Wall restaurant. (photo credit:PR)

At times it seems as if there is a building code for Chinese restaurants in Tel Aviv: red paper lanterns decorating both the exterior and the interior. But for all the external similarities characterizing Chinese Wall and its culinary counterparts, the story of this modest eatery is undoubtedly quite different.

Owner Ya’akov Wang is a Chinese Jew who immigrated to Israel via a yeshiva in Kiev, then brought his family over from the old country. For 20 years now, Wang and his brother-in-law Raphael have run this popular restaurant, where they love to host the soldiers who serve in the IDF with their children.

You don’t enjoy two decades of success without attracting a loyal following – or, apparently, making some concessions to local sensibilities. In the beginning, the restaurant’s name was the Great Wall of China, which boils down in Hebrew to the somewhat lackluster term Hahoma Hasinit. Eventually, the proprietors settled for keeping it simple: The name on the bilingual menu is the straightforward translation “Chinese Wall.”

Fortunately for diners, compromises do not extend to the kitchen. Wang’s hometown in China was Lanzhou, a city in the northwest famous for its hand-pulled noodles. This same technique is employed at Chinese Wall, resulting in the restaurant’s trademark dish, which has the added virtue of being vegan.

“We go through kilos of fresh noodles every day, during our lunch hour rush,” says Wang. “And in winter, we sell many bowls of noodle soup.”

Nonetheless, a visit to Chinese Wall should start not with the main event but rather with the appetizers. There are several types of delicious dim sum (NIS 18/22): steamed wheat dough vegetarian dumplings stuffed with cellophane noodles, cabbage and tofu, along with steamed rice dough dumplings filled with chicken, served with dips of soy sauce, sweet and sour sauce, and hot sauce.

The shao mai (NIS 22) – pomegranate-shaped dumplings filled with chicken and rice – were already nicely seasoned with soy and needed nothing else to improve the flavor.

The egg rolls (NIS 19), containing sprouts and shredded cabbage and carrots, were fried to the perfect degree of crispiness and served piping hot.

The famous stir-fried house noodles, served Lu Mian style (aka lo mein), features a vegetarian mix (NIS 43) – carrots, sprouts, cabbage and tofu – to which optional extra beef, chicken, or duck may be added. Any version of these noodles in mellow brown sauce makes for a hearty and satisfying dish. According to Wang, the noodles with duck is one of the more popular choices.

There are, in fact, several duck dishes on the menu, all of which may be ordered with no advance notice or additional waiting time required. The crispy duck (NIS 89) consists of strips of moist and flavorful meat (albeit a tad fatty), with a particularly savory and distinctive black bean sauce and a side of zesty Chinese coleslaw.

Sweet and sour chicken (NIS 56) is another specialty of Chinese Wall: white meat chicken nuggets coated in a cornstarch batter and fried to a gentle crunch, served in a syrupy, amber-colored sauce made from caramelized sugar. While slightly more sweet than sour, thankfully, it is a far cry from the artificial red sauces so often found elsewhere.

Everything went nicely with beer imported from Asia (NIS 22) and the tea brewed in-house and served from an elegant Chinese teapot. (The beer was Chang from Thailand. Wang tried to serve Tsingtao from China, but the kashrut supervisor would not permit it.)

The desserts (NIS 16) were typically Chinese: sticky rice dough dumplings filled with sweet bean paste, and pieces of banana coated in cornmeal. Both were fried and drizzled with syrup, for a light and sweet finish to the meal.

Chinese Wall offers its discounted business lunch on weekdays from noon to 5:30 p.m., so it is possible to enjoy the good value even after the restaurant’s peak lunchtime hours.

Chinese Wall (Kosher). 26 Mikveh Israel St., Tel Aviv. Tel: (03) 560-3974.

Snacks and the White City Favorite Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner and Late Bites Zion's Tel Aviv

Snacks and the White City Favorite Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner and Late Bites Zion's Tel Aviv

Living in Tel Aviv the question “where should we eat?” is probably the most common sentence we recite with my friends. The White City is famous from being the Middle East’s most progressive culinary hotspot, thanks to the fabulous combination of Arabian and Mediterranian dishes.









The local cuisine is so hyped that a legendary Canadian television show, The Foodie List decided to drop by in our city, and among other cool and talented food bloggers they picked me to guide their audience to the restaurants I value the most, and talk about the vegan dishes I could not survive without. Dig in, “beteavon”, enjoy your fabulous meals.
Breakfast


Meshek Barzilay is an adorable restaurand and café, serving mouthwatering, mostly organic dishes. Their menu is filled with surpeises from Indian masala dosa through veggie burgers in steamed buns flavored with beetroot to their signature vegan chocolate dessert, AKA a piece of heaven.



Yet their most popular hit is the vegan Israeli breakfast with savory chickpeas omlet, dips of many kind, bread basket packed with home made deligts, a small bowl of crunchy salad, and even a mini muffin with cinamon flavored home made jam – for the sweet toothed ones.
Contact details: Ahad Ha’Am 6, 03-516-6329,www.meshekbarzilay.co.il

Lunch

Falafel HaKosem – meaning “The Magical Falafel” is the White City’s best kept secret. There are many falafelias offering deep fried veggie balls in pita bread, but there is only one place where they took it to the next level and menaged to create The Ultimate Falafel Sandwich.



You can pick from whole wheat or white pita, and even ask for fried eggplants in your sandwich, apart from the regulars of course: hummus, tahini, pickled cucumbers, cabbage salad, and amba, the Middle East’s answer to mago chutney.
Contact details: Schlomo Ha’melech 1, 03-525-2033
Dinner


Zakaim is my absolute favorite restaurant in the whole entire world – the only reason I don’t eat there every single night is because it’s not really a budget eatery, yet it worth every single shekel.



The lovely Persian family runs a place where all dishes are roasted, grilled, chopped and baked to absolute perfection. The kitchen is right in front of you, so you can see how the talented artists, the chefs are creating your dinner, while you indulge in the magical vibe of the restaurant.



My favorite dish is the roasted egglpant with spicy tomato sauce and tahini dressing and sweet Shabbat bread, “Chala” and I usually pick a garnishing, such as the best fries you’ll ever get: crispy on the outside, creamy in the inside. If you love cocktails as much as I do, don’t miss their “Arak Shkedim” drink, the Middle East’s traditinal anis spirit watered with home made almond milk.
Contact details: Simtat Beit HaShoeva 20, 03-613-5060,www.zakaim.co.il

Late Night Snack

HaAchim means “The Brothers”, and the name says it all. These bros run a cool and hip bistro where they serve traditional Israeli-Arab dishes with a twist – non vegans usually go for their kebabs, but as I usually drop by after 11, and I try not to eat heavy food before a party night so I can dance and drink without falling aslpeep standing, I prefer their most unusual dish, the grilled lettuce.




Whoever tried mangold or spinach baked in the oven can imagine how wonderful it is to have a bite from a lettuce, soaking in garlic and lemon olive oil, dripping of sesame paste. And for those who just don’t get the concept, I have nothing left to say but – go for it and see it for yourself.
Contact details: Ibn Gabirol St 12, 03-691-7171

This Weekend is Foodie Weekend – Open Restaurants Tel Aviv

Love food? Adore Tel Aviv? Want to meet the best chefs and visit the most famous kitchens of the White City? This weekend is your opportunity to experience the Tel Aviv vibrant culinary scene from within, to discover and get a taste of the daily life of Tel Aviv’s most intriguing chefs!

Open Restaurants®, held in Tel Aviv for the third time, gives the public a chance to experience their favorite Tel Aviv restaurants, from within. Tel Aviv was recently named one of the best destinations for foodies, and nests a dynamic, lively culinary culture, that varies from a high class Mediterranean street food, to hundreds of vegan restaurants of all kinds.

The four day event, taking place on March 8-11 2016, is expected to draw thousands of participants, who are able to enjoy kitchen sneak-peeks, culinary workshops and chef-guided tours of Tel Aviv’s culinary scene and open-air markets. Over 80 restaurants will open their doors to visitors for a delectable experience. The public will enjoy behind the scenes tours of their favorite restaurants, discovering the areas usually hidden from the public eye and will get a taste of the daily life of Tel Aviv’s most intriguing chefs as they meet, cook with and taste their finest dishes.

Snacks and the White City Favorite Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner and Late Bites Zion's Tel Aviv

Snacks and the White City Favorite Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner and Late Bites Zion's Tel Aviv

Living in Tel Aviv the question “where should we eat?” is probably the most common sentence we recite with my friends. The White City is famous from being the Middle East’s most progressive culinary hotspot, thanks to the fabulous combination of Arabian and Mediterranian dishes.









The local cuisine is so hyped that a legendary Canadian television show, The Foodie List decided to drop by in our city, and among other cool and talented food bloggers they picked me to guide their audience to the restaurants I value the most, and talk about the vegan dishes I could not survive without. Dig in, “beteavon”, enjoy your fabulous meals.
Breakfast


Meshek Barzilay is an adorable restaurand and café, serving mouthwatering, mostly organic dishes. Their menu is filled with surpeises from Indian masala dosa through veggie burgers in steamed buns flavored with beetroot to their signature vegan chocolate dessert, AKA a piece of heaven.



Yet their most popular hit is the vegan Israeli breakfast with savory chickpeas omlet, dips of many kind, bread basket packed with home made deligts, a small bowl of crunchy salad, and even a mini muffin with cinamon flavored home made jam – for the sweet toothed ones.
Contact details: Ahad Ha’Am 6, 03-516-6329,www.meshekbarzilay.co.il

Lunch

Falafel HaKosem – meaning “The Magical Falafel” is the White City’s best kept secret. There are many falafelias offering deep fried veggie balls in pita bread, but there is only one place where they took it to the next level and menaged to create The Ultimate Falafel Sandwich.



You can pick from whole wheat or white pita, and even ask for fried eggplants in your sandwich, apart from the regulars of course: hummus, tahini, pickled cucumbers, cabbage salad, and amba, the Middle East’s answer to mago chutney.
Contact details: Schlomo Ha’melech 1, 03-525-2033
Dinner


Zakaim is my absolute favorite restaurant in the whole entire world – the only reason I don’t eat there every single night is because it’s not really a budget eatery, yet it worth every single shekel.



The lovely Persian family runs a place where all dishes are roasted, grilled, chopped and baked to absolute perfection. The kitchen is right in front of you, so you can see how the talented artists, the chefs are creating your dinner, while you indulge in the magical vibe of the restaurant.



My favorite dish is the roasted egglpant with spicy tomato sauce and tahini dressing and sweet Shabbat bread, “Chala” and I usually pick a garnishing, such as the best fries you’ll ever get: crispy on the outside, creamy in the inside. If you love cocktails as much as I do, don’t miss their “Arak Shkedim” drink, the Middle East’s traditinal anis spirit watered with home made almond milk.
Contact details: Simtat Beit HaShoeva 20, 03-613-5060,www.zakaim.co.il

Late Night Snack

HaAchim means “The Brothers”, and the name says it all. These bros run a cool and hip bistro where they serve traditional Israeli-Arab dishes with a twist – non vegans usually go for their kebabs, but as I usually drop by after 11, and I try not to eat heavy food before a party night so I can dance and drink without falling aslpeep standing, I prefer their most unusual dish, the grilled lettuce.




Whoever tried mangold or spinach baked in the oven can imagine how wonderful it is to have a bite from a lettuce, soaking in garlic and lemon olive oil, dripping of sesame paste. And for those who just don’t get the concept, I have nothing left to say but – go for it and see it for yourself.
Contact details: Ibn Gabirol St 12, 03-691-7171

This Weekend is Foodie Weekend – Open Restaurants Tel Aviv

Love food? Adore Tel Aviv? Want to meet the best chefs and visit the most famous kitchens of the White City? This weekend is your opportunity to experience the Tel Aviv vibrant culinary scene from within, to discover and get a taste of the daily life of Tel Aviv’s most intriguing chefs!

Open Restaurants®, held in Tel Aviv for the third time, gives the public a chance to experience their favorite Tel Aviv restaurants, from within. Tel Aviv was recently named one of the best destinations for foodies, and nests a dynamic, lively culinary culture, that varies from a high class Mediterranean street food, to hundreds of vegan restaurants of all kinds.

The four day event, taking place on March 8-11 2016, is expected to draw thousands of participants, who are able to enjoy kitchen sneak-peeks, culinary workshops and chef-guided tours of Tel Aviv’s culinary scene and open-air markets. Over 80 restaurants will open their doors to visitors for a delectable experience. The public will enjoy behind the scenes tours of their favorite restaurants, discovering the areas usually hidden from the public eye and will get a taste of the daily life of Tel Aviv’s most intriguing chefs as they meet, cook with and taste their finest dishes.

Duke Darori in Zion's Kitchen: Stacked Eggplants Rounds

Stacked Eggplant Rounds


Cooking with Kids: Stacking is great precision work for the older kids and depending on their age this could be a great opportunity to introduce them to frying.

Note: To seed tomatoes, cut tomato in half and gently scopp out seeds; or turn halves upside down over a bowl and gently squeeze until all the seeds have come out. Tomato seeds can be bitter and so can eggplant, so it is better to remove the seeds for these Stacked Eggplant Rounds.

Duration: 40 minutes

Cook Time: 25 minutes

Prep Time: 15 minutes

Servings: 4-6
INGREDIENTS

Gefen Canola Oil Cooking Spray
2 eggplants, unpeeled, sliced into 1/2 inch rounds
Kosher salt
1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1 (8 ounce) container feta cheese, crumbled
6 on-the-vine tomatoes, seeded and chopped or 1 (16 ounce) can chopped tomatoes, drained
1 green pepper, seeds and ribs removed, finely chopped
8 large basil leaves
PREPARATION


1. Preheat oven to 425°F.(220°C ) Lightly spray jelly-roll pan with cooking spray.

2. Place eggplant slices on paper towels and sprinkle lightly with salt. Let sit for about 5 minutes. Pat dry with more paper towels.

3. Lay the eggplant rounds in a single layer on a prepared pan. Brush with olive oil and season with pepper. Roast for 15 minutes; turn over and brush with oil. Continue roasting for 10 minutes more.

4. While eggplant is roasting, combine feta, tomatoes, and peppers in a medium bowl. Set aside.

5. Stack basil leaves, roll them up like a cigar, and slice them into thin strips (a chiffonade).

6. Place one slice eggplany on a serving platter. Spoon 1 – 2 tabelspoons feta mixture on top. Repeat layers. Finish with a few shreds basil. Repeat with remaining ingredients.

Serve with Braised Carrots.

Duke Darori in Zion's Kitchen: Stacked Eggplants Rounds

Stacked Eggplant Rounds


Cooking with Kids: Stacking is great precision work for the older kids and depending on their age this could be a great opportunity to introduce them to frying.

Note: To seed tomatoes, cut tomato in half and gently scopp out seeds; or turn halves upside down over a bowl and gently squeeze until all the seeds have come out. Tomato seeds can be bitter and so can eggplant, so it is better to remove the seeds for these Stacked Eggplant Rounds.

Duration: 40 minutes

Cook Time: 25 minutes

Prep Time: 15 minutes

Servings: 4-6
INGREDIENTS

Gefen Canola Oil Cooking Spray
2 eggplants, unpeeled, sliced into 1/2 inch rounds
Kosher salt
1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1 (8 ounce) container feta cheese, crumbled
6 on-the-vine tomatoes, seeded and chopped or 1 (16 ounce) can chopped tomatoes, drained
1 green pepper, seeds and ribs removed, finely chopped
8 large basil leaves
PREPARATION


1. Preheat oven to 425°F.(220°C ) Lightly spray jelly-roll pan with cooking spray.

2. Place eggplant slices on paper towels and sprinkle lightly with salt. Let sit for about 5 minutes. Pat dry with more paper towels.

3. Lay the eggplant rounds in a single layer on a prepared pan. Brush with olive oil and season with pepper. Roast for 15 minutes; turn over and brush with oil. Continue roasting for 10 minutes more.

4. While eggplant is roasting, combine feta, tomatoes, and peppers in a medium bowl. Set aside.

5. Stack basil leaves, roll them up like a cigar, and slice them into thin strips (a chiffonade).

6. Place one slice eggplany on a serving platter. Spoon 1 – 2 tabelspoons feta mixture on top. Repeat layers. Finish with a few shreds basil. Repeat with remaining ingredients.

Serve with Braised Carrots.

Rustico (Not kosher). 42 Basel St., Tel Aviv. Tel: (03) 602-6969.

Rustico serves delicious fare in a delightful atmosphere.


With a number of Italian restaurants opening and closing in Tel Aviv, it is reassuring that the Rustico chain has remained consistent in the high quality of its food and service. It was on a warm Thursday evening that we headed out to the Basel St. branch (there is also one on Rothschild Blvd. and Sarona).

Rustico features a selection of antipasti and classical Italian starters and main dishes such as pasta, fish, meat and seafood. Its wine list has a good selection of Italian wines, wellknown Israeli wines and a choice of boutique wines.

Upon sitting down, we were met with the homemade focaccia (NIS 18), served with a ceremonious mixing of olive oil and balsamic vinegar. A selection of starters followed, with Italian hits such as Caprese salad (NIS 48). This salad is at its best in summer, when basil is wonderfully aromatic and tomatoes are ripe and luscious. We were then presented with the tagliata alla rucola (NIS 68). The roasted and sliced beef tenderloin was medium rare and very tender, beautifully complemented with spicy arugula, olive oil and lemon.

We then sampled the tartufo pizza (NIS 64). Laden with champignon mushrooms and truffle-infused oil, this pizza was heaven from the first bite! The crust was thin and crispy and slightly charred, and there was just the right amount of mozzarella cheese to complement and balance the pizza.

As it was a very warm night, our friendly waiter offered us two glasses of apple mojito, which were very well received.

After a bit of a breather, I was informed by the staff that the gnocchi at Rustico was a strong suit. Wanting to see for myself, I selected the gnocchi with smoked goose breast (NIS 71). They did not disappoint on their claim, as I found the dish to be exquisite. Very light and fluffy, the gnocchi were melt-inyour mouth delicious, while the goose breast was crisp and succulent.


This was followed by the cannelloni (NIS 69) with ricotta cheese and spinach. A little heavy but really wonderful. It had so many different parts – crunchy edge, soft and warm center, lovely sauce and chewy noodle.

We ordered hot drinks and took another breather. Then came dessert, which consisted of the chocolate pizza. Those who like Nutella would love this pizza. I think the dough they use for this pizza should be a touch thinner. It was tough getting through the crust, bu it definitely hit the spot.

We were sorry to leave the merry crowd that filled the place. Rustico serves very good Italian food in an authentic rural Italian-style setting, with gracious and friendly service. If you plan to go, make sure to reserve a table in advance.

The writer was a guest of the restaurant.

Rustico (Not kosher). 42 Basel St., Tel Aviv. Tel: (03) 602-6969.

Racha Restaurant (Not kosher). 1 Ahad Ha’am St., Tel Aviv. Tel: 053-937-3366.

Racha banks on a move to Tel Aviv to up its game.

The vagaries of the security situation in Jerusalem has caused a number of restaurants in the capital to close down. One, however, has chosen to turn its crisis into an opportunity. Instead of shuttering its doors, Racha, the upscale Georgian restaurant formerly of Havatzelet Street downtown, picked up and relocated to Neveh Tzedek in Tel Aviv, where it now occupies a spacious, ornately designed main dining room, with an adjacent bar and a large room for private functions. (Fortunately for Jerusalemites, at least one other good Georgian restaurant remains in the city: Kangaroo, in Nahalat Shiva.)

Presiding over the transplanted enterprise is owner-manager Lili Ben-Shalom, who views her job primarily as hostess, making sure that customers enjoy every aspect of her hospitality: a full table of food, glasses of chacha (Georgian grappa) served in special hornshaped shot glasses, and music designed to get parties of diners dancing.

The chacha, which I found smoother than its Italian counterpart, is also the star of one of Racha’s six specialty cocktails: Gomarjos (NIS 44), an alternately tart and sweet blend of chacha, pomegranate syrup, sparkling wine and lemon, served in a flute glass and garnished with an amarena cherry. (Although there are English menus for the food and wine, the cocktail list is in Hebrew only.)


Another interesting cocktail, with an astringent bite, is Skaipo (NIS 42): thyme-infused vodka with honey and lemon, served in a martini glass and garnished with a slice of lemon.

The tables, set with elegant china, also greet diners with sotis furri (NIS 14) – crusty white rolls of Georgian bread – and kabusta, a piquant cabbage salad that perks up the taste buds in anticipation of the coming meal.

Georgian meals typically begin with a spread of mezze-style salads. At Racha, they can be ordered à la carte or in grouped assortments of five (NIS 128) or 10 (NIS 230), recommended depending on the number of diners. My companion and I narrowed our favorites down to three: Tweeni (NIS 38) – beef brain in a spicy tomato sauce that had just the right amount of heat, which we mopped up with the excellent bread; Patrijiani (NIS 30) – eggplant stuffed with a zesty paste of ground walnuts, herbs and pomegranate that had the consistency of haroset; and Chirhali (NIS 28) – beet cubes with walnuts and herbs, which were as tender and sweet as you will ever taste this vegetable.


A Georgian feast unfolds like an Italian meal, except that the pasta course is replaced with a second course of meat fillings encased in either fried or steamed dough. Of the four variations on the menu, our favorites were the Chiburiaki (NIS 38), crescent-shaped turnovers fried to crisp perfection and filled with nicely seasoned ground beef; and Hinkali (NIS 20/38), Chinese-style dumplings filled with a particularly succulent and juicy mixture of chopped meat.

Main courses at Racha come in three categories: tavshilim (stews), grilled meats and daily specials. In each category, we relied on the staff’s recommendations.

Salianka (NIS 84) – chunks of tender veal simmered with vegetables in a delectable gravy – certainly deserved to be the waiter’s first choice in the stew category.

Kuppatti (NIS 88) – traditional Georgian sausage as thick as bratwurst – was Ben-Shalom’s recommendation. It turned out to be a surprising experience. At first bite, it seemed undercooked; then, slowly, it built into an explosion of flavor in the mouth.

There was a long list of daily specials – as many, in fact, as the number of main courses on the printed menu.

“We rotate the specials, and some become customer favorites,” says Ben-Shalom. “It would take you two weeks to taste everything on the menu.”

According to shift manager Yael, the Duet (NIS 158) is the most popular special: Equal parts of rich goose liver and exquisite beef filet, accompanied by half a small pear stuffed with red onion jam and generous slices of fresh cantaloupe. Altogether an extraordinarily decadent dish.

We accompanied our main courses with Georgian wine: Kindmrauli red (NIS 30) and Old Tbilisi Alzani white (NIS 32). Both were described as semi-dry and were rather on the sweet side.

Desserts were also typically Georgian. The unusual churchkhela (NIS 32) – a sweet “sausage” of hazelnuts surrounded by a gelatinous wine pudding – was definitely worth a try.

A large plate of assorted cookies – five different kinds – was served with Georgian black tea poured English-style from a tall, slim china teapot (NIS 48). A ceremonious finish to a memorable meal.

Following Tel Aviv, the determined Ben-Shalom has her sights set on Europe. I wouldn’t count her out.


Racha (Not kosher). 1 Ahad Ha’am St., Tel Aviv. Tel: 053-937-3366.

My Bobba Sarah Kaplan Drus s Chicken Soup Recipe ( adapted to the 21st Century)

My Bobba Sarah Kaplan Drus's Chicken Soup Recipe

Sarah Kaplan Drus was my Bobba .... in South Africa Bobba aren't Bobbie's. Sarah Kaplan Drus was born in Krakow where she she met my Zieder Samuel Drus. They Married in 1921 and left for the Golden Madina but here's where it becomes a bit hazzy ... the GPS Application on their iPhones broke down and instead of joining a sister in NY and brother in Chicago they ended up in Cape Town with another sister Leah . Samuel Drus was a jack of all trades and successful at none.... Sarah Kaplan Drus was the breadwinner... she kept a sizable herd of cows in her back yard in Maitland ( now a suburb in the center of Cape Town ) and made different cottage cheeses using flour sacks.... this was 4- years before the process was commercializes.... Bram Fischer even registered two patents on her behalf.

Demand was huge among the growing Jewish population , the hospitality industry and also Groot Schuur Hospital.

Sarah Kaplan Drus also had a conscience .After seeing the poverty in Black squatter camps around South Africa in the 1920's She started Poalot Zion... a Jewish Charaity that built and supported cheches in these squatter camps ( and of course some of her cottage cheese was a gourmet bread spread their)......Poalot Zion ( translation...Women Workers of Zion) latter became the huge Jewish Women Organisation in South Africa ... the Bnoth Zion.... hey how about that . Sarah Kaplan Drus was also a founder of the Communist Party in South Africa ( nogschlepper Samuel Drus was the first Membership Secretary sort of the COO a paid position.... hey this must rank as the first incident of Jewish protexia in South Africa) ....after the The Molotov–Ribbentrop Pact Russian- German Non Aggression Pact signed in August 1939 she and other Jewish members ( that dominated the Party then) left in disgust , The South Agrican Communist Party was dominated by Jewish Members who were extremely aware of Hitler's anti Semitism and fascism. Sarah Kaplan drus then devoted herself to Socialist Zionism of Kazenelsohn and Ben Gurion . She established the Dor Habonim Youth Movement both in South Africa and later in the United Kingdom and became a vocal advocate of Zionism in South Africa . Sarah Kaplan Drus was my Father's mother..... my Mother's Father was was Hymie Baker who in 1931 when Jabotinsky visited South Africa for an extended period ( after been told he could not return to Palestine)..... in 1931 Hymie Baker my Grandfather with Meir Katz ( later priciple of www.herzlia.com , the Jewish School Network in Cape Town, and Harry Hurwitz , the editor of the Jewish Herald in South Africa and after 1977 when the Likud came to power , became Begin's Spokesman. He established the Begin Institute in Jerusalem devoted to Revisionist Zionism, Jabotinsky and Menachem Begin ( well worh a visit) ..... so where was I ... Hymie Baker established the Revisionist Zionist Herut Movement and Betar Youth Movement in South Africa. My grandparents Sarah Kaplan Drus and Hymie Baker met many times in Cape Town ( he lived in Port Elizabeth) and huddled over the same radio in Cape Town cried and celebrated together when on 29 November 1947, the U.N. General Assembly adopted the Plan to Partition Palestine and establish a Jewish State_ as Resolution 181. Whow , I did a Auntie Sylvia Kaplan Schiff , Auntie Eddie Kaplan Wacks , Auntie Anita Kaplan Dubowitz and Auntie Laikie Kaplan Kavalsky ( 4 of 7 Kaplan sisters and my father's first cousins) digression ... when asked a direct question they emptied out pigeon holes of transient and information before answering the question.... they redefined bobbamizers and kvetching and nobody knew how to schmaltz better than they did .As a child my Mom who ws Auntie Sylvia's best friend took me to their tea parties at the Arthur Seat Hotel in Sea Point ....and I listened and listened while their tea got cold ..... and hey no hassle .... they simply summoned the waiter , " Hey Ho You..... you served us cold tea .... take it back ( and bring us back a steaming substitute) ....I was 5,6,7 years old at the time and thank God ( why shouldn't it be a Woman) that I did.... fond memories that I am slowly putting on digital paper.

Once every few months, you simply have to take a total time-out. You head home and peel off those everyday clothes, putting on the fancy clothes kept for special occasions. Not for festive events or Shabbat dinners, but genuine costumes − the sort that puts some distance between the body and anything that’s habitual or familiar. You wait for the night to settle in and for the rain to ease up, and then stride briskly in the cold air from the front door to the car. You start the engine and tune the radio to the classical music station and then start driving on the dark road, without saying a word.

You periodically exchange glances and smile, hum the cello solo of a duet while perhaps remembering a similar drive you once took together in Safed or France, or even Mitzpeh Ramon. You park by the stone wall and walk up the broad path, your heels clicking on the brick pavement until you reach the doorman, in his brimmed hat and overcoat. A welcoming gesture and the heavy doors are opened. You cross the foyer, descend the stone steps, present your coats at the hatcheck, and follow the waitress to your table.

Now it begins: the white tablecloths and crystal; the gold-rimmed dishes, neatly arranged silverware and quail eggs in caramel toffee, served on a silver tray. This is the real place that never was, a here-and-now that never happened. You exchange looks once more, and smile. That’s it − everything has finally come to a stop.

A terrine of goose liver with praline; tomato leather; tomato jelly and beetroot granita; fish suspended in smoke, served on a green cypress branch; ground chicken stock with noodles melting into it; olive oil-laced chocolate and a “financier” with marmalade. And the dishes continue to be laid down and picked up, and the silverware is retrieved and replaced and retrieved again, and the glasses of wine seem to refill of their own accord. All is flanked by silence, and occasional cries of astonishment and surprise, but there’s not a single trace of the world that continues to race around us.

Chicken Soup with tapioca and chicken noodles (10 portions)

The most fascinating thing about my Bobba Sarah Kaplan Drus's Chicken Soup's Recipe is that it is so easy to make, She disassembles the routine, familiar taste of chicken soup and then reassembles it into a different and surprising texture and flavor. 

Contrary to our usual custom, this is not a simple, intuitive recipe. One should be highly attentive to changes in ingredients and consistency, and even measure the exact temperature so as to stop the cooking at the exact point at which the egg white congeals, so the noodles won’t be dry and tasteless. On the other hand, the tapioca and noodles can be prepared ahead of time, so that the Shabbat meal will not be disturbed by fits of fussiness and punctiliousness in the kitchen.


This is not a soup you make for when the kids come home from school on a winter day. This is a soup you prepare slowly and conscientiously for important guests who will keep on thinking even when they are eating.


For the stock:
1 kilo chicken bones
1 onion
2 carrots
1 leek
1 celery root
1 parsley root
4 tbsp. ‏(60 ml.‏) olive oil
3 liters water
2 bay leaves
1 wild fennel bulb or 4 sprigs of dill
12 sprigs of parsley
Atlantic salt
coarsely ground black pepper

For the tapioca:
100 grams tapioca
2 1/2 cups ‏(650 ml‏.) chicken soup stock

For the noodles:
1 kilo chicken breast, without fat or tendons
1 egg white
fine sea salt

Begin preparation of the stock: rinse and clean the bones well. Place half in a flat metal baking tin and roast for about 15 minutes in a preheated 250-degree-Celsius oven, until the bones are seared and browned.

Peel the onion, carrot, leek, and celery and parsley roots; cut into large chunks. Heat the oil in a large pot and steam the vegetables slightly. Add both the partially cooked and the seared bones into the pot, then add 3 1/2 liters of water. Bring the liquid to a boil, and immediately lower the heat so the liquid will be at the verge of boiling, at a gentle simmer. With a spoon, remove the cloudy foam that forms on the surface, continuing to do so until none is left. This stage is highly important as it is responsible for ensuring the clear color of the soup.

When the stock is clear, add the bay leaves and the fennel/dill; cover the pot and cook for about four hours. The lengthy cooking time brings out the flavors of the vegetables and the meat, and imbues the soup with a deeper color. Strain the stock and put back on the stove. Taste, and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper.

Meanwhile, we move on to preparation of the tapioca. Bring the stock to a boil and add the tapioca pearls. Reduce the heat; stir constantly until the tapioca turns transparent. When the pearls are still white, take a spoonful of the tapioca and taste it. If the consistency is pleasant to the palate, remove from the flame and cover until serving; if it is still somewhat hard, cook a bit more. Take care not to overcook, as the tapioca will then become colorless, gelatinous dough.

Preparation of the noodles is easy, as you will see. Grind the chicken two or three times, to a fine consistency. Transfer to a food processor equipped with a steel blade, and add the egg yolk and a little salt. Process thoroughly so you get a smooth and delicate cream. Bitton pours this cream through a flour sifter, using a special baker’s instrument to push the mixture through the tiny holes. But excellent results may be achieved even without this method. The mixture is transferred, portion by portion, into a pastry bag with a narrow, spaghetti-width hole at its tip.

Place a thermometer into the stock, and heat to 63 degrees Celsius. Remove from the heat and “spray” the noodle mixture into it in a circular movement. Spray enough noodles for one portion, and then repeat. Place the soup back on the stove, checking that the temperature has returned to 63 degrees; cook for another half minute or so. Move with the help of a slotted spoon into a tureen, repeating the action with the remaining mixture.


To assemble the dish: Place 2 tablespoons of tapioca in an elegant soup bowl, with a cluster of noodles on top of it. Then pour in the boiling broth and serve hot, complete with silver tablespoon and snifter of cognac.

My Bobba Sarah Kaplan Drus s Chicken Soup Recipe ( adapted to the 21st Century)

My Bobba Sarah Kaplan Drus's Chicken Soup Recipe

Sarah Kaplan Drus was my Bobba .... in South Africa Bobba aren't Bobbie's. Sarah Kaplan Drus was born in Krakow where she she met my Zieder Samuel Drus. They Married in 1921 and left for the Golden Madina but here's where it becomes a bit hazzy ... the GPS Application on their iPhones broke down and instead of joining a sister in NY and brother in Chicago they ended up in Cape Town with another sister Leah . Samuel Drus was a jack of all trades and successful at none.... Sarah Kaplan Drus was the breadwinner... she kept a sizable herd of cows in her back yard in Maitland ( now a suburb in the center of Cape Town ) and made different cottage cheeses using flour sacks.... this was 4- years before the process was commercializes.... Bram Fischer even registered two patents on her behalf.

Demand was huge among the growing Jewish population , the hospitality industry and also Groot Schuur Hospital.

Sarah Kaplan Drus also had a conscience .After seeing the poverty in Black squatter camps around South Africa in the 1920's She started Poalot Zion... a Jewish Charaity that built and supported cheches in these squatter camps ( and of course some of her cottage cheese was a gourmet bread spread their)......Poalot Zion ( translation...Women Workers of Zion) latter became the huge Jewish Women Organisation in South Africa ... the Bnoth Zion.... hey how about that . Sarah Kaplan Drus was also a founder of the Communist Party in South Africa ( nogschlepper Samuel Drus was the first Membership Secretary sort of the COO a paid position.... hey this must rank as the first incident of Jewish protexia in South Africa) ....after the The Molotov–Ribbentrop Pact Russian- German Non Aggression Pact signed in August 1939 she and other Jewish members ( that dominated the Party then) left in disgust , The South Agrican Communist Party was dominated by Jewish Members who were extremely aware of Hitler's anti Semitism and fascism. Sarah Kaplan drus then devoted herself to Socialist Zionism of Kazenelsohn and Ben Gurion . She established the Dor Habonim Youth Movement both in South Africa and later in the United Kingdom and became a vocal advocate of Zionism in South Africa . Sarah Kaplan Drus was my Father's mother..... my Mother's Father was was Hymie Baker who in 1931 when Jabotinsky visited South Africa for an extended period ( after been told he could not return to Palestine)..... in 1931 Hymie Baker my Grandfather with Meir Katz ( later priciple of www.herzlia.com , the Jewish School Network in Cape Town, and Harry Hurwitz , the editor of the Jewish Herald in South Africa and after 1977 when the Likud came to power , became Begin's Spokesman. He established the Begin Institute in Jerusalem devoted to Revisionist Zionism, Jabotinsky and Menachem Begin ( well worh a visit) ..... so where was I ... Hymie Baker established the Revisionist Zionist Herut Movement and Betar Youth Movement in South Africa. My grandparents Sarah Kaplan Drus and Hymie Baker met many times in Cape Town ( he lived in Port Elizabeth) and huddled over the same radio in Cape Town cried and celebrated together when on 29 November 1947, the U.N. General Assembly adopted the Plan to Partition Palestine and establish a Jewish State_ as Resolution 181. Whow , I did a Auntie Sylvia Kaplan Schiff , Auntie Eddie Kaplan Wacks , Auntie Anita Kaplan Dubowitz and Auntie Laikie Kaplan Kavalsky ( 4 of 7 Kaplan sisters and my father's first cousins) digression ... when asked a direct question they emptied out pigeon holes of transient and information before answering the question.... they redefined bobbamizers and kvetching and nobody knew how to schmaltz better than they did .As a child my Mom who ws Auntie Sylvia's best friend took me to their tea parties at the Arthur Seat Hotel in Sea Point ....and I listened and listened while their tea got cold ..... and hey no hassle .... they simply summoned the waiter , " Hey Ho You..... you served us cold tea .... take it back ( and bring us back a steaming substitute) ....I was 5,6,7 years old at the time and thank God ( why shouldn't it be a Woman) that I did.... fond memories that I am slowly putting on digital paper.

Once every few months, you simply have to take a total time-out. You head home and peel off those everyday clothes, putting on the fancy clothes kept for special occasions. Not for festive events or Shabbat dinners, but genuine costumes − the sort that puts some distance between the body and anything that’s habitual or familiar. You wait for the night to settle in and for the rain to ease up, and then stride briskly in the cold air from the front door to the car. You start the engine and tune the radio to the classical music station and then start driving on the dark road, without saying a word.

You periodically exchange glances and smile, hum the cello solo of a duet while perhaps remembering a similar drive you once took together in Safed or France, or even Mitzpeh Ramon. You park by the stone wall and walk up the broad path, your heels clicking on the brick pavement until you reach the doorman, in his brimmed hat and overcoat. A welcoming gesture and the heavy doors are opened. You cross the foyer, descend the stone steps, present your coats at the hatcheck, and follow the waitress to your table.

Now it begins: the white tablecloths and crystal; the gold-rimmed dishes, neatly arranged silverware and quail eggs in caramel toffee, served on a silver tray. This is the real place that never was, a here-and-now that never happened. You exchange looks once more, and smile. That’s it − everything has finally come to a stop.

A terrine of goose liver with praline; tomato leather; tomato jelly and beetroot granita; fish suspended in smoke, served on a green cypress branch; ground chicken stock with noodles melting into it; olive oil-laced chocolate and a “financier” with marmalade. And the dishes continue to be laid down and picked up, and the silverware is retrieved and replaced and retrieved again, and the glasses of wine seem to refill of their own accord. All is flanked by silence, and occasional cries of astonishment and surprise, but there’s not a single trace of the world that continues to race around us.

Chicken Soup with tapioca and chicken noodles (10 portions)

The most fascinating thing about my Bobba Sarah Kaplan Drus's Chicken Soup's Recipe is that it is so easy to make, She disassembles the routine, familiar taste of chicken soup and then reassembles it into a different and surprising texture and flavor. 

Contrary to our usual custom, this is not a simple, intuitive recipe. One should be highly attentive to changes in ingredients and consistency, and even measure the exact temperature so as to stop the cooking at the exact point at which the egg white congeals, so the noodles won’t be dry and tasteless. On the other hand, the tapioca and noodles can be prepared ahead of time, so that the Shabbat meal will not be disturbed by fits of fussiness and punctiliousness in the kitchen.


This is not a soup you make for when the kids come home from school on a winter day. This is a soup you prepare slowly and conscientiously for important guests who will keep on thinking even when they are eating.


For the stock:
1 kilo chicken bones
1 onion
2 carrots
1 leek
1 celery root
1 parsley root
4 tbsp. ‏(60 ml.‏) olive oil
3 liters water
2 bay leaves
1 wild fennel bulb or 4 sprigs of dill
12 sprigs of parsley
Atlantic salt
coarsely ground black pepper

For the tapioca:
100 grams tapioca
2 1/2 cups ‏(650 ml‏.) chicken soup stock

For the noodles:
1 kilo chicken breast, without fat or tendons
1 egg white
fine sea salt

Begin preparation of the stock: rinse and clean the bones well. Place half in a flat metal baking tin and roast for about 15 minutes in a preheated 250-degree-Celsius oven, until the bones are seared and browned.

Peel the onion, carrot, leek, and celery and parsley roots; cut into large chunks. Heat the oil in a large pot and steam the vegetables slightly. Add both the partially cooked and the seared bones into the pot, then add 3 1/2 liters of water. Bring the liquid to a boil, and immediately lower the heat so the liquid will be at the verge of boiling, at a gentle simmer. With a spoon, remove the cloudy foam that forms on the surface, continuing to do so until none is left. This stage is highly important as it is responsible for ensuring the clear color of the soup.

When the stock is clear, add the bay leaves and the fennel/dill; cover the pot and cook for about four hours. The lengthy cooking time brings out the flavors of the vegetables and the meat, and imbues the soup with a deeper color. Strain the stock and put back on the stove. Taste, and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper.

Meanwhile, we move on to preparation of the tapioca. Bring the stock to a boil and add the tapioca pearls. Reduce the heat; stir constantly until the tapioca turns transparent. When the pearls are still white, take a spoonful of the tapioca and taste it. If the consistency is pleasant to the palate, remove from the flame and cover until serving; if it is still somewhat hard, cook a bit more. Take care not to overcook, as the tapioca will then become colorless, gelatinous dough.

Preparation of the noodles is easy, as you will see. Grind the chicken two or three times, to a fine consistency. Transfer to a food processor equipped with a steel blade, and add the egg yolk and a little salt. Process thoroughly so you get a smooth and delicate cream. Bitton pours this cream through a flour sifter, using a special baker’s instrument to push the mixture through the tiny holes. But excellent results may be achieved even without this method. The mixture is transferred, portion by portion, into a pastry bag with a narrow, spaghetti-width hole at its tip.

Place a thermometer into the stock, and heat to 63 degrees Celsius. Remove from the heat and “spray” the noodle mixture into it in a circular movement. Spray enough noodles for one portion, and then repeat. Place the soup back on the stove, checking that the temperature has returned to 63 degrees; cook for another half minute or so. Move with the help of a slotted spoon into a tureen, repeating the action with the remaining mixture.


To assemble the dish: Place 2 tablespoons of tapioca in an elegant soup bowl, with a cluster of noodles on top of it. Then pour in the boiling broth and serve hot, complete with silver tablespoon and snifter of cognac.