On Baking (Update): A Textbook of Baking and Pastry Fundamentals (3rd Edition) 3rd Edition by Sarah R. Labensky , Priscilla A. Martel , Eddy Van Damme (Pearson) (IBRCookBooks)

This is one of those books (like its companion "On Cooking" that is a wealth of information whether you are a food professional or a novice cook. It is a text book, but it is excellent. It is presented in a clear, well illustrated, logically organized manner and is easy to read and understand even if you are a novice.

The price of this and the companion will scare some folks away. That is a pity as you could easily buy several other cookbooks totaling way more than this but not get the information and understanding that you would from this book. If you are a cook, serious about cooking, beginning but wanting to learn or know someone who is, this is the book to get. My wife is a Master Food Volunteer in VA trained by VA Tech. This is also known as a Master Food Preserver in other states who complete the same training program through their state university. She and others like her educate the public on food preparation, sanitation, storage, preserving, and other related food topics. For her, this is the "go to" reference on the subject regarding baking, as is the other for cooking.

Chef Sarah Labensky  is currently a professor of culinary arts at Woosong University’s Sol International Culinary Arts School in Daejeon, Korea, Chef Sarah Labensky was previously Founding Director of the Culinary Arts Institute at Mississippi University for Women, as well as a professor of culinary arts at Scottsdale (Arizona) Community College. Chef Sarah has also owned restaurants in Columbus, MS and spent many years as a working pastry cook and caterer. She is co-author of On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals (Pearson, 5/e update, 2014), The Prentice Hall Essentials Dictionary of Culinary Arts (Prentice Hall, 2007), and Applied Math for Food Service (Prentice Hall, 1997).

Priscilla Martel is a professional chef, educator and food writer with a special interest in artisan baking, the pastry arts and Mediterranean cuisines. She honed her cooking skills at Restaurant du Village, a country French restaurant opened in Chester, CT in 1979. Today, she operates All About Food, which holds several baking patents and collaborates with food manufacturers and restaurants to create innovative products, menus and marketing programs.She is a visiting instructor at Boston University’s certificate program in the culinary arts. She speaks to consumer and professional organizations about baking, almonds and healthy cooking. She is a contributing writer for Flavor and the Menu Magazine and the culinary director of American Almond Products Company, a leading baking-industry ingredient manufacturer. She is an active member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals, Bread Baker's Guild of America and the International Association of Foodservice Editors.She is co-author of On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals (Pearson, 5/e update, 2014) and Math for Bakers DVD.

Chef Eddy van Damme is  elgian-born pastry chef and confectioner, Eddy Van Damme is Professor in the Baking and Pastry Arts Program at Houston Community College. He studied at pastry school in Bruges and at PIVA in Antwerp, Belgium as well as in Paris at LeNôtre and Cacao Barry before coming to the United States over 20 years ago. Winner of 5 American Culinary Federation Gold Medals, Chef Van Damme consults to many companies including Imperial Sugar. He is host of popular and award-winning TV show Bake It!

Fried Schnitzel with Apricot Sauce, A recipe from Stephen Darori, #BArdOfBatYam, #PoetLaureateOfZion

Do you dream about making schnitzel without all the labor-intensive work? If so, this recipe is for you. There is minimal oil and no frying. Dump the pieces on a pan and bake them. It’s that simple. No need to stand sentry over the boiling oil for fear of splatters and burns. Of course, it’s also healthier.

Slice the chicken into thin strips. It’s easier to slice thinly when half-frozen. So if you’re defrosting the chicken, don’t let it defrost fully.



Crack the egg into a bowl, and mix the cornflake crumbs and flour in a separate bowl. Dip each piece of chicken into the egg and then into the crumbs. Lay the chicken pieces on a greased cookie sheet. Don’t worry about overcrowding the pan—it’s fine if the pieces are touching.



Drizzle the oil over the chicken and bake at 400° F for about 20 minutes. Baking time will depend on the thickness of your chicken, so cut one piece open to see if it’s ready before you take them all out. Also keep in mind that baking on disposable pans usually requires a bit more oven time than real pans.

Eat immediately or refrigerate for later. This chicken also works well when you cut it up and add it to salad.



Want to fancy it up a little? Make the dipping sauce and serve it alongside the chicken. Watch it disappear in no time!

Shnitzel Ingredients
1 lb. chicken breast
2 cups flavored corn flake crumbs
¼ cup flour
1 egg
3 tbsp. oil

Schnitzel Directions
Cut the chicken into thin strips. It’s easier to slice thinly when the chicken is half-frozen.
Crack the egg into a bowl and beat it with a fork.
In a separate bowl, mix the flour and cornflake crumbs.
Dip each piece of chicken into the eggs and then into crumbs. Lay the chicken pieces on a greased cookie sheet and drizzle with the oil.
Bake at 400° F for approximately 20 minutes (longer if your chicken is thicker or if you’re using a disposable foil pan).

Sauce Ingredients
½ cup apricot preserves
1 tbsp. soy sauce
2 tbsp. white sugar
1 tbsp. brown sugar
2 tbsp. vinegar
⅛ tsp. ginger powder
⅛ tsp. garlic powder
¼ cup water

Sauce Directions
Cook all sauce ingredients in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil and then reduce to a simmer.
Simmer over a very low flame for 10–15 minutes until the sauce thickens. Make sure to stir frequently so the sauce doesn’t burn.
When it’s ready, take the sauce off the fire and pour it through a fine mesh strainer.
Serve alongside the schnitzel for dipping.

Grilled Parley Lemon Chicken Kebab Skewers, a recipe from The Bard Of Bat Yam, Poet Laureate Of Zion

Lemon is my all-time favorite ingredient, and lately I've been on a bit of a parsley kick. Since lemon and parsley marry so well, these chicken kebab skewers are fragrant, herbaceous, fresh, and flavorful.

For best flavor, it's important to use fresh lemon, fresh parsley, and fresh garlic. Bottled lemon juice won't cut it.

You can cook these on an outdoor grill, indoor grill pan, or even just in the oven. I've given directions for all.

Ingredients
2 lb. chicken breast, cubed
2½ cups flat-leaf parsley (approximately 25 grams)
⅓ cup fresh lemon juice
6 tbsp. olive oil
3 large garlic cloves, crushed
2 tbsp. honey
zest of 2 lemons
2 tsp. kosher salt

Directions

1. Cut the chicken into cubes and place in a bowl or container.
2. Blitz the rest of the ingredients together in a blender or food processor. Pour over the chicken. Mix so that the marinade reaches all the chicken.
3. Marinate the chicken for a few hours, or overnight.
4. Thread the chicken onto wooden skewers. Optional: intersperse the chicken with chunks of onion or other vegetables. I used onion.
5. Cook skewers on the barbecue until chicken is cooked through but tender.
6. To cook indoors, pre-heat the oven to 500°F. Heat a grill pan over high heat for 4-5 minutes. Place the chicken skewers on the pan and grill for 2-3 minutes, then flip and grill for another 2 minutes. Transfer pan to the oven and cook for another 5 minutes. If you don't have a grill pan, you can still make these. Place the chicken skewers on a real baking sheet and bake at 500°F for 10-12 minutes.

Yields: 10 kebabs

Tel Aviv Port: Top Attractions that you shouldn't miss

A day at the Tel Aviv Port: Tel Aviv Port's top attractions
Take a break from the beach and enjoy the coastline portside on the bustling boardwalk of the Tel Aviv Port

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While the Jaffa port has been around since the start, Tel Aviv has developed a newer northern attraction at the opposite end of the sandstrip. During the day, Namal Tel Aviv (the Tel Aviv Port) is surrounded by action: Tel-o-fun bikers on their way to Park HaYarkon, shoppers enjoying the outlet overload, families waiting in line for weekend brunch, and friendly fisherman catching their own. At night, the area’s hangars transform into Tel Aviv’s most happening nightlife scene, hosting crazy parties, community events, and all-night Jazz jams. Come see for yourself at the city’s trendiest hotspot.




Shopping, Markets and fairs
Indoor Port Market
Old North

Like San Francisco’s Ferry Plaza and Barcelona’s Boqueria, Israel’s latest market is an indoor offering of the freshest ingredients peppered with live demonstration cooking stations and upscale, fresh food eateries. Be sure to indulge in the handmade pasta bar.
Read more



Theater, Performing arts space
Hangar 11
Old North


After years in the business and hundreds of performances by leading artists, Zeev Isaac had a vision. As one of the most prominent producers in Israel and internationally, he wanted to create a venue appropriate for all kinds of events, from cultural to private and business. Hangar 11 is the product of his dreams. With video projection and some of the most advanced sound and lighting systems in the Israel, the multi-disciplinary venue hosts a wealth of events year round. In addition, a well-trained staff provide meticulous service to create the perfect evening, no matter the occasion.




Attractions
Tel-O-Fun (Green Rental Bike)
Park HaYarkon

Ever dreamed of experiencing the chaotic roads like a true Tel Avivian? Well, now you can with these green machines. Tel-O-Fun bicycles are modern, safe, 3-speed bicycles located throughout Tel Aviv. The perks of this green energy alternative are that the user can purchase the bike for varying periods of time and can return the bike to any location in Tel Aviv. Not only that, after purchasing an extremely affordable day-pass, the first 30 minutes are free! As Tel Aviv is highly accessible by bike, the Tel-O-Fun program is an awesome way to explore the city while living like a local. From day to week passes, this ingenious program grants you the freedom and fun of having a bike without the worry of bike theft. So grab one of the signature green bikes and ride along Tel Aviv’s warm and stunning coastline over to Park Hayarkon for an afternoon of exploring.



Restaurants, Mediterranean
Kitchen Market
Tel Aviv Port

Located in the Tel Aviv port's indoor market, Kitchen Market offers gorgeous views of the water while dining on creative food with excellent ingredients, conveniently, from the market. Enjoy one of the top spots on the city here while indulging in contemporary Israeli food brimming with creativity. This is harmonious food that surprises and soothes at the same time.




Theater, Performing arts space
Beit HaYotzer (Tel Aviv Port)
Tel Aviv Port

Hangar 11’s got challah bakes, business affairs, and commercial events; Hangar 13’s got jazz and blues; Hangar 22’s got Beit HaYotzer. This small and intimate performing arts space is a hopping venue for the hottest musicians in town. Putting on concerts by international and local musicians, Hangar 22 sends music blasting through the port and into the waves of the Mediterranean all night long. Buy your tickets to the next show, head down to the port, and wait in line for a unique musical experience.
Read more



Shopping
Comme il faut
Tel Aviv - Jaffa
Comme il faut is comprised of a fashion house, women’s only spa, and chef's restaurant located at the Beit Banamal (Home in the Harbor) complex at Tel Aviv port, that offers a women's venue for culture and entertainment. Sybil Goldfiner founded the company together with Carole Godin 22 years ago, as a business by women for women. The company seeks to advance women in Israeli society by developing and cultivating feminist awareness. The approach that guides the company's activities is that a garment is not only a garment, but is also part of an entire gamut of political actions that are motivated by a cultural-critical worldview. The designers at comme Il faut believe that a piece of clothing truly resembles the way in which it was produced, the body image it carries, and the way we choose to advertise and display it. Moreover, the clothing article will always signify the values that inspired its creation.




Theater, Performing arts space
Reading 3
Tel Aviv Port

Get ready for bright lights, booming stereos, and 980 square meters of all-night fun. With the most advanced sound and lighting systems out there, Reading 3 is the perfect venue for local and international artists. On top of its three platforms, the space offers kosher catering and premium bar service fit for any occasion. Located in the bustling north Tel Aviv port, in just five short years, Reading 3 has risen to be a leading event space for private business events , launches and parties. Book your next gathering with the best in the industry for an experience you’ll be talking about for years.




Bars, Lounges
Shablul
Tel Aviv Port

The same spot that reverberates with the exuberant tones of veteran jazz and blues artists like Lazer Lloyd, also resonates with the funk, ethno-jazz and hip-hop tapestry so many Tel Aviv musicians are known for. Grab a trumpet and toot your own horn because this little gem at the heart of Tel Aviv’s port is open seven days a week.




Art, Galleries
Art Market Tel Aviv
Tel Aviv Port

As you step inside the Art Market Tel Aviv’s colorful, spacious showroom, you’ll leave Tel Aviv and enter Soho, New York. The inviting gallery space in the Tel Aviv Port is part of the Bruno Art Group and nearly a century old. With an extensive collection including works by emerging and acclaimed artists, both Israeli and international, the gallery sells works at a wide range of prices, so you don’t need to be a mogul to pick up a piece for your living room.


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Restaurants, Seafood
Sherry Herring
Tel Aviv Port

Located in Shuk HaNamal, the Sherry Herring sandwich kiosk shares views of the beautiful Tel Aviv port. Chef Sherry Hansky crafts delicious creations in front of your eyes using local ingredients. Perfectly seasoned, golden baguettes envelop fresh fish, juicy vegetables, cream and butter at this gourmet sandwich shop. This ready-to-go meal is quick and tasty, offerIng a fresh take on fast food and making it the ideal stop for a lunch break - plus, it's rIght next to a wine shop, makIng it easy to craft the perfect picnic using the delicacies at Sherry Herring.


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Bars, Cocktail bars
Shalvata
Tel Aviv Port

Overlooking the Mediterranean waters of Tel Aviv's Port, known to the locals as “The Namal,” this lush, chic and inviting open-plan bar is celebrated for its distinctive choice of beats amidst the bewitching sea breeze. Head down for an afternoon beer that will surely turn into an evening cocktail. Sunset to sunrise, Shalvata has you covered.

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Hotels
Armon Hayarkon Hotel
Old North

Armon Hayarkon is just a few steps from Metzitzim Beach and a 5-minute walk from Tel Aviv's Namal nightlife district. It offers free Wi-Fi and wired internet.Guest rooms at the Armon Hayarkon Hotel are modern and spacious. Each comes with air conditioning and cable TV. Breakfast is a varied buffet.The hotel is located on Tel Aviv's exclusive Hayarkon Street, and the old port is just a few metres away. The area is full of restaurants and shops.


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Attractions, Parks and gardens
Levant Fair
Tel Aviv Port


During its inception in 1932, Levant fair attracted six hundred thousand people, which was three times the population of the Jewish community in the country at that time. Unfortunately, during the second World War, it lost its glam and was neglected. However, in 2011, "Atarim" took the fair under its wing and began some much-needed rehabilitation, renewing the compound to a bustling cultural center for entertainment and commerce. Today, the compound is rife with designer boutiques, lifestyle shops, restaurants, cafés and even an amphitheatre for live performances. With plenty of shopping and activities, Levant Fair is back and better than ever.

Ocean View Restaurants: Five of the Best in Tel Aviv

Five restaurants in Tel Aviv with oceanside views-Tel Aviv restaurants with the best seat in the house

There’s nothing like a good sea breeze (cocktail) to pair with those gentle Mediterranean winds

If there’s one thing tourists and locals alike can agree on, it’s that the beaches in Tel Aviv are one of the White City’s top attractions, and for good reason. From the Tel Aviv Port all the way down to Old Jaffa, the Mediterranean sandstrip embraces all walks of life...even dogs. Who said the fun had to end when the sun sets though? These five Tel Aviv restaurants sprinkled along the sea keep the good times rolling with sensual seafood, high class cuisine, and even Greek classics. With fantastic food and views to match, we’ll let you decide which of the two is more awe inspiring.







Manta Ray
Tel Aviv Beach


Put together an attractive beachfront location, fresh seafood prepared with a distinctly Mediterranean flavor, friendly but very efficient waiters and you have the winning combination that has made Manta Ray one of the most popular restaurants in Tel Aviv. Enjoy leisurely breakfasts, brunches, lunches or dinners in this stunning location. You won’t regret it.




Calypso TLV
Tel Aviv Beach

It seems like everywhere you look Omer Miller is popping up with a new eatery and now he’s at it again! Partnering with David Tor, the man behind the famous nightclub, The Cat and Dog, to bring Calypso, a traditional seafood tavern set against the backdrop of the majestic Mediterranean Sea. Fresh seafood dishes and wistful cocktails are presented through the night in a space where the sea meets the electrifying energy of the city’s nightlife.


Parakalo
Tel Aviv Beach


With a dreamy, eye-level view of the glittering Mediterranean and authentic fare, the new Greek taverna, Parakalo, is set to dominate the summer days and nights with its sprawling outdoor patio, freewheeling good vibes and colorful decor dripping in tasteful blue and white accents. Situated smack dab on the bustling beach promenade between Tel Aviv and Jaffa, the location could not be more ideal for a walk-by sit-down of spontaneous brunch, lunch, a drink and a snack or an all-out dinner and drinks scenario. The open-air atmosphere and the eccentric mural, painted by Israeli street artist Elna Oo of local graffiti collective Brothers of Light, are perfectly synchronized complements to dining in the summer breeze, carefree, and grubbing on great food. What’s more is the purely hospitable nature of the waitstaff and Jaffa-born and bred owners, Hany and Nelly Grably, who take the utmost care in making sure you are enjoying every last bite. Make sure to order a range of fresh fish and seafood options like rounds of calamari and plump shrimp doused with lemon and tangy herbs. Their signature Greek recipes are inspired by Hany’s childhood visits to Athens, and the mezze platters, punctuated by fresh tziziki sauce, ikra and homemade flatbread are all winners.

The Old Man and the Sea
Jaffa Port

Since branching out to the Jaffa Port, The Old Man and the Sea has become more than a meal, it is a complete theatrical scene. From waiters running around like whirling dervishes, to giant pitchers of fresh squeezed lemonade, and so many vibrant salads you won't even need a main course (though you must try the grilled chicken, fish and kebabs), a weekend brunch at the port is worth braving the long line. Don't fret, it moves fast, and the fare is worth it. While the inside is cool on a hot day, we suggest braving the heat and eating port-side for the full experience. Throw in warm oven baked pita bread, and complimentary coffee/tea and tiny balls of honey-glazed goodness for dessert, and you'll never want to leave

Kitchen Market
Tel Aviv Port

Located in the Tel Aviv Port’s indoor market, this market-to-table restaurant serves up seasonal dishes bursting with creativity. At Kitchen market, you can enjoy breathtaking views of the sea while indulging in some of the best contemporary Israeli food in the city. Handcrafted by artisanal chef Yossi Shitrit, the gourmet cuisine is harmonious, while each Mediterranean dish surprises and soothes at the same time.

Best Desserts: Where to find them in Tel Aviv

A day-by-day guide to Tel Aviv's best desserts
Indulge in these seven desserts in Tel Aviv, one for each day of the week



Even in our wellness-obsessed world there comes a time when you have to throw caution to the wind and fall head first into a mouth-watering dessert that’s as high in calories as it is in delectable flavors. Let Tel Aviv prove its worth as more than just ice cream parlours and froyo. Bring on the sugar high at these White City cafés, bars and restaurants with the tastiest Italian tiramisu, creamiest cheesecake and Israel's take on the famous British banofee pie. Though sharing is caring, you'll want these calory-rich desserts all for yourself.


A dessert a day keeps the doctors away


1© Meir Cohen

Restaurants, Cafés
"Sugar High" Sunday: Dallal Bakery
Neve Tzedek


When only something sweet will do, French bakery Dallal is always your best bet. Their halva babka boasts a lightly nutty flavor in a brioche dough. Available in individual sizes and as a cake (which we would argue also constitutes an individual portion), ride the sugar high to recovery. Located in the enchanting Neve Tsedek neighborhood, this cozy bakery is known as one of the very best in town. Incredible French pastries with Israeli twists line the vitrine, boasting a selection of perfectly shaped eclairs, mini-size cakes and colorful sandwiches.




"Manjari" Monday: Blue Sky’s Manjari Bar


Meir Adoni (aka Israel’s answer to Jean Georges) is the force behind four of Tel Aviv’s most popular food establishments: Catit, Mizlala, Blue Sky and Lumina. It’s at Blue Sky, however, that you’ll find what is arguably his best dessert. The restaurant, located on top of the Carlton Hotel on the 15th floor, looks out onto Tel Aviv’s coastline on one side and onto the urban landscape of the city on the other side. While you can stop in for a full three course meal, Blue Sky also offers small plates and cocktails – or you can skip all that and just order the Manjari Bar (NIS 73). The multi-textured dessert consists of a Manjari chocolate bar, amarena sauce, amarena cherries financier, nuts crumble, almond tuile, cherries macaroon, caramelized hazelnut and tonke beans ice cream. It comes beautifully presented and it also happens to be kosher.

Manjari Bar ,Eliezer Peri St, Tel Aviv (03-5201830)

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"Sweetart" Tuesday: Aria’s Passionfruit and White Chocolate Cake


The great thing about Aria is that you can indulge in their passionfruit and white chocolate dessert (NIS 48) and then dance off all the calories at their downstairs bar/lounge. So what are you waiting for? The cake is made with slivers of passionfruit cream and white chocolate mousse, both of which comes served on hazelnut crunch and with slightly sour passionfruit sorbet.

Aria ,66 Nahalat Binyamin St, Tel Aviv (03-5296054)


"Macaron" Wednesday: Messa’s Exotic Dessert


Messa’s signature dessert is a strawberry-macaron-cream dessert served in a mason jar. The fruit you see in this dessert is a bit misleading. This isn’t anything high in nutritional value. Note that the centerpiece of the eatery is a long, white central table with high-back chairs – stylish yes, but comfortable no. For comfort and privacy ask to be seated on one of the outlining tables when making your reservation and don’t forget to leave time to check out their adjoining bar/lounge.

Messa 19 HaArba’a St, Tel Aviv (03-6856859)

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"Tiramisu" Thursday: Bakery’s Tiramisu


As far as tiramisu goes, there is a lot of competition in Israel. Ouzeria and Bindella Osteria put up a good fight, but ultimately the Bakery - part of the restaurant and hospitality group behind some of Israel’s most well-known establishments (think Hotel Montefiore, Coffee Bar and Brasserie) beat out the competition with their version of the classic dessert. They get brownie points for stocking it in two sizes (a small for one, NIS 26, or a large for six, NIS 140) and for selling it at both Delicatessen and their various Bakery locations. Expect layers of sponge cake soaked in coffee and amaretto liqueur, mascarpone cream and cream Zabaione. You won’t find a better version in Italy.

Delicatessen, 79 Yehuda HaLevi St, Tel Aviv (03-9681010); or Bakery, various locations in Tel Aviv.


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"Cheesecake Factory" Friday: Café Europa’s Cheesecake


When a Tel Aviv restaurant can master a New York-style cheesecake you know they’re on to something. It should therefore come as no surprise that absolutely everything on Café Europa’s menu exceeds expectations. The only criticism – bigger portions, please! The menu is divided by prices with dishes ranging from NIS 32 to NIS 62. We suggest ordering up everything that catches your eye (remember portions are small, especially by Israeli standards) but make sure to leave room for one dessert, namely the aforementioned cheesecake (NIS 42). Served on its own, it would be a winning dessert, but adding caramelized popcorn and popcorn cream to their cheesecake makes this an exclamation point to any meal. Meanwhile, their churros, chocolate brioche, strawberry shortcake and lime-berry-cream dessert are all worth silver medals. Basically, arrive with a group and order everything on the menu.

Cheesecake Factory, 9 Rothschild Bvld, Tel Aviv (03-5259987)


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"Sorbet Soup" Saturday: Pastel’s Floating Island


If you’re looking for a date spot or the kind of place where you could go with a big group and actually speak without shouting, Pastel is a fantastic option. It’s also sun-drenched, has ample outdoor space as well as an outdoor bar and has comfortable seating, which is important because after chowing down on the modern brasserie’s eats you’ll want to linger longer and order dessert. Namely their Floating Island (NIS 44), which is actually a combination of two classic desserts: one Mediterranean and the other western. It’s made up of strawberry sorbet, Amarena cherries, a soft and burnt meringue, kadaif and malabi soup. There’s an illusion of a floating island after the server pours the “soup,” which is spiced with rose water, once the dessert hits your table.

Pastel, 27 Sha’ul HaMelech St, Tel Aviv (03-6447441)

Jewish Food is disappearing from Tel Aviv Street . Replaced by International Cruisine

It was mid-May in Tel Aviv and the afternoon heat was rising. Sitting in Eva’s, a small un-air conditioned restaurant, eating chicken soup with kreplach (small dumplings filled with ground meat), sweat formed quickly behind the knees.

Eva’s has been located on this dumpy stretch of Allenby Street for 48 years. The menu is classic Ashkenazi – or Eastern European Jewish – food, and the glass display case is full of prepared potato latkes (pancakes) and fried cauliflower. The matzoh balls (soup dumplings) here are ‘sinkers’, in the common parlance. That means that they’re dense and bready, sitting in the bottom of the bowl of chicken soup. (‘Swimmers’ are lighter and spongier, and they float on the surface. The difference is a question of both skill and personal preference.)





Allenby Street in Tel Aviv is home to the Jewish restaurant Eva’s (Credit: M.Sobreira/Alamy)

There were three separate tables of single men in their 70s, one of whom was completing a crossword while working away at a large chicken schnitzel. Business was otherwise quiet. “This is not food for young people,” said proprietor Eva Schachter, whose family is originally German. “It’s grandma food. I’m old enough to remember the taste of the food my mother and grandmother used to make.” Eva smiled, her freckled and deeply wrinkled face framed by a gamine haircut.

One of the biggest shocks for many foreign visitors to Israel is the lack of Ashkenazi Jewish cuisine with which they are familiar. Where are the smoked salmon, bagels and cream cheese at breakfast? What about the delis that define 'Jewish cuisine' from Montreal to Los Angeles? Or the kugel (a casserole made from egg noodles or potato), gefilte fish (an appetizer made from poached fish) and matzoh ball soup served at Jewish tables around the world? Time Out Tel Aviv even has a section entitled ‘Where to find the best Jewish food in Tel Aviv’, and the few cafes that do sell Ashkenazi food (like Eva’s) typically emblazon their menus and awnings with the label ‘Jewish food’, something you would never see at a neighbourhood shawarma joint. These are strong indicators of just how spare this kind of cuisine is here.





Potato pancakes called ‘latkes’ are a staple in Jewish cooking (Credit: Owen Franken/Getty Images)


In reality, Israeli cuisine has long been more closely associated with its immediate environment, a fusion of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern traditions and ingredients. The early Zionists eagerly adopted Arab dishes, such as falafel, hummus, and shawarma, while in recent years Israelis have developed a more diversified palate. Still, ‘Jewish food’ remains scarce. But very few visitors know the reasons behind the dearth of it in Israel: despite the fact that many Jews living in Israel can trace their lineage to Eastern Euripe, they forsook traditional Ashkenazi food both because of scarcity but also in deliberate service to the formation of a new national narrative.

Israeli cuisine has long been more closely associated with its immediate environment

Unlike the relative prosperity of the US, where the deli – which specialises in preserved meats – flourished with the arrival of Jewish immigrants from Europe, the early years of Jewish statehood were marked by austerity. For the first decade following the formation of the state in 1948, the Israeli government imposed rationing on its rapidly growing population. Dwindling foreign currency made imported staples like oil, sugar and meat scarce. Fuel, such as natural gas and electricity, was also in short supply; bagels, which require an extra step of boiling before being baked, were too energy-intensive. The population instead made due with extra helpings of aubergine, which grew in abundance, and spawned such dishes as sabich, a pita sandwich overstuffed with the meaty vegetable.





Meat was scarce in the early years of Jewish statehood, so aubergine became a go-to ingredient

Even after austerity ended, the Levantine environment was never quite suited to Ashkenazi cuisine. Cattle, a necessary first step for a pastrami-on-rye or braised brisket, originally failed to flourish in the hot climate. But Ashkenazi food always consisted of more than a deli sandwich, so austerity alone cannot explain its failure to thrive in the new Jewish state – and that’s where ideology comes into play.

Early adherents to the Zionist project, committed to creating a Jewish state in the territory now known as Israel, sought to abandon vestiges of their past. Just as the European settlers favoured Hebrew over Yiddish and khakis over frock coats and homburgs, they also purposefully chose to eat indigenous foods over Ashkenazi ones. “Many of the first Ashkenazi Jews who came here, the ideological pioneers, were interested in cutting off their roots from the past and emphasizing the newness of the Zionist project,” explained Shaul Stampfer, professor of Soviet and East European Jewry at the Hebrew University of Jerusalem. “One of the ways of doing that [was] through the food.”





The earliest Zionist settlers promoted the creation of a unified food culture (Credit: Stuart Freedman/Getty Images)

The adoption of indigenous food lent the early European implants an air of authenticity. The production of local ingredients – the things that grew well in the desert and along the Mediterranean coastline, and the many dishes adapted from Arab kitchens – became part of the Zionist narrative. Advertisements at the time implored the population to eat locally grown ‘Hebrew watermelons’. The Jewish people had returned to Zion and had the diet to prove it.

The Jewish people had returned to Zion and had the diet to prove it

Later, as Jewish immigrants from Morocco to Ethiopia began piling in, each with their own unique style of cooking, the creation a national cuisine became ever more important. “They were grappling with people from different cultures and traditions and it was a challenge to convince them that they belonged together,” said Yael Raviv, author of Falafel Nation: Cuisine and the Making of National Identity in Israel. “They had to use everything and anything to forge this unified nation. Food is so tied to Jewish heritage, laws of kashrut [kosher dietary rules], and the Israeli economy is really driven by agriculture – so it became a very effective tool because it could be used in these various ways.”





Early Zionists adopted Palestinian dishes such as falafel (Credit: Photostock Israel/Getty Images)

The earliest Zionist settlers, most of whom were Ashkenazi, proved willing participants in the building of this unified food culture. “The early immigrants were very committed to making a new life in the land of Palestine,” said Raviv. “That gave them a high degree of motivation to leave behind certain things and embrace new things.” And Raviv noted that there was a certain pragmatism to this attitude: “If you can’t get something, you have to learn to live without it.”

In recent years, Israelis have developed a more diversified palate, with Thai and Mexican restaurants easy to find on the streets of Tel Aviv. Still, Ashkenazi food remains scarce. Several delicatessens have tried to break into the Israeli market – though the training wheels are still on. One of the more successful entrants, Deli Fleishman, describes their sandwiches as a ‘Jewish taste for the Jewish state’ – although their ‘Brooklyn’ sandwich inexplicably contains Argentinian-style chimichurri and is a far cry from New York’s famous Katz’s Deli. “Smoking and fermenting are a real skill,” said Israeli chef Michael Solomonov, the James Beard Award-winning chef behind Philadelphia’s Zahav restaurant. “Only recently have Jewish Americans come to Israel and started making pastrami.”





Only recently have Jewish Americans brought pastrami to Israel (Credit: Boston Globe/Getty Images)

Still, some more traditional elements of Ashkenazi cuisine have had greater success. As part of the nouveau Israeli food movement, which is synthesizing diaspora Jewish traditions from around the world, there’s a renewed interest in North American and European contributions. Classic European Jewish fare like chopped liver is starting to work its way onto fusion menus at high-end restaurants alongside more local ingredients like pomegranates and avocados. At Raz Rahav’s OCD restaurant in Tel Aviv, kasha (puffed buckwheat groats) mingle with trout sashimi and caper aioli. Solomonov has great hopes for the resurgence of this culinary tradition.