DAMPFNUDELN, THE ULTIMATE DESSERT FOR NEW YEAR’S EVE

With the secular New Year just around the corner, I can think of no better dish to make than Dampfnudeln , a Bavarian dessert whose name means steamed (dampf) dumplings (nudeln). It consists of balls of a rich yeast dough steamed in a Dutch oven, covered with caramel, and accompanied by a vanilla sauce.

Popularized by Catholics in southern Germany, steamed dumplings were traditionally served with soup for lunch. Through the centuries, many variations of Dampfnudeln crossed over to the German Jews, who served the dish with dairy meals.

By far the best version I know is this one, which consists of a brioche-like dough, rolled and cut into circular dumplings that are stacked and baked in a pan, much like monkey bread, and then soaked with a caramel sauce made with maple syrup. The finished cake is topped with a vanilla sauce or, as I prefer, vanilla ice cream, resulting in a billowy, melt-in-your-mouth, caramel-drenched dessert, with just a hint of brandy. This recipe came to me from the late Rhoda Haas Goldman, the great-grand-niece of Levi Strauss. In the 1990s, while visiting San Francisco, I asked Goldman, a wisp of a woman, when she ate Dampfnudeln, and she replied: “Whenever I can.” So, start your diet on Jan. 1, and enjoy this treat to mark the end of 2013. It’s worth every single calorie.

Dampfnudeln – Steamed Dumpling Cake Soaked in Caramel Sauce

Cake

2 tablespoons active dry yeast
1 1/4 cups lukewarm milk
1/4 cup sugar
2 egg yolks
1 3/4 cups (3 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 tablespoon brandy
5-6 cups all-purpose flour

Caramel Sauce

2 cups sugar
1/2 cup warm water
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1/2 cup maple syrup
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 teaspoon vanilla

1. Dissolve the yeast in a mixing bowl with the lukewarm milk and sugar. Stir and add the egg yolks, melted butter, salt, vanilla, and brandy. Gradually add 5 cups of the flour, adding more if needed. The dough will be very soft. Beat well with a spoon or an electric mixer and let rise, covered, for an hour. Refrigerate for several hours or overnight.

2. Let it return to room temperature before continuing. Flour a board and roll the dough out to 1-inch thick. Cut circles 2 inches in diameter with a small biscuit or cookie cutter. Arrange a layer of rounds on the bottom of an 8- or 9-inch springform pan lined with parchment paper, almost touching, then continue layering until you have used up all the dough. Allow to rise 45 minutes to 1 hour, covered.

3. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees and make the caramel sauce. In a saucepan mix the sugar with 1/4 cup of the water. Very gradually add the remaining water, stirring constantly. Simmer on medium heat until slightly caramel in color, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes. Add the butter, syrup, and cream, and simmer a few more minutes until smooth. Set aside and allow to cool for a few minutes, then add the vanilla.

4. After the dumplings have risen, bake on the bottom rack of the oven for 45 minutes or until golden. Remove from oven and prick the top with the tines of a fork. Just before serving reheat the caramel sauce and pour over the cake. Let the sauce seep through then flip the cake onto a serving plate. Cut in slices and serve with vanilla ice cream.

Yield: 12 servings

Hanamal 24 Not kosher 24 Hanamal St., Haifa Tel: (04) 862-8899 Monday – Thursday, 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. Friday, noon to 10 p.m. Saturday, 1 p.m. to 10 p.m.

Hanamal 24 is a European enclave in downtown Haifa.French food with an Italian Accent.





Hanamal 24 is a European enclave in downtown Haifa.

The small streets surrounding the Haifa port in the recently developed downtown Haifa area reminds me of many European cities, with bars and coffee shops spilling onto the cobbled streets and sidewalks. So it is very fitting that when you walk into Hanamal 24, the European theme continues, with the restaurant’s décor reminiscent of a rural Italian courtyard. Although the eatery seats 80 diners, the layout, with its numerous nooks and side rooms, creates an intimate space for all patrons, even on a busy night.

Hanamal 24 is the brainchild of restaurateur Guy Avital and chef Ran Rosh. Rosh trained in France and worked at a two-Michelin star restaurant before returning to Israel to start working with Avital. The menu is in the style of a traditional French bistro with Italian influences.

Avital recommended that we order the tasting menu (NIS 299) so we could try most of the restaurant’s signature dishes.

We started with rosemary grissini with smoked eggplant and crushed tomato dips (NIS 14). Although the bread was tasty, it was much too soft to be classed as grissini. I would have preferred more of a crunch to the crust. The whipped cream of onion soup (NIS 38) was rich and creamy, unlike traditional onion soups. The artichoke salad, which included rocket, caramelized almonds and delicious aged Parmesan (NIS 42), was one of our favorite dishes and had a lovely combination of flavors and textures, despite being served with too much dressing. We enjoyed the salmon ceviche in lime and vanilla with onion shanti (NIS 55), which had an interesting and fresh flavor profile. The purple calamari with tomato seeds, smoked roasted eggplant, chili and crème fraiche (NIS 45) was also good. My companion found the calamari to be soft and well cooked.

The liver pâté with brandy, pears cooked in saffron and brioche (NIS 48) was another favorite dish. The pâté was light and creamy, and the roasted brioche reminded me of cornbread. The final starter was the beef sirloin tartare with capers, black sesame tahini, shallots and chili brioche croutons (NIS 59), which had a good overall flavor.

We were surprised that after so many appetizers, we were served only three dishes from the main course section, but by then we were already pretty full.

The beef fillet pieces with chestnuts, zucchini, fresh chili and beef stock (NIS 118) were perfectly cooked, with a distinctive grilled flavor. And I found the tagliatelle and porcini mushrooms, served with soft goat cheese, leeks and truffle cream (NIS 78), to be rich and well seasoned.

Finally, the grilled fillet of drum fish with Gouda cheese risotto, fish stock and onion cream (NIS 122) was a fine dish but didn’t have any stand-out flavors.

To accompany the meal, we enjoyed a refreshing glass of Kna’an Rosé by Dalton 2016 (NIS 35) to start, followed by a bottle of Vitkin Blend 24 2014 (NIS 185), a blend of Carignan, Syrah, Cabernet France and Argaman.

Exclusive to Hanamal 24, that wine went well with both the meat and fish dishes.

We finished the meal with three desserts recommended by our waitress. The pistachio crème brûlée (NIS 45) was glazed at the table, which was a novel touch. The dish was rich and creamy with a good pistachio flavor. We could not believe that the chocolate mousse (NIS 42) was sugar-free. It was light and not too rich. Finally, the apple crumble (NIS 38) was very flavorful, but the topping was very dry and there was too much of it.

Overall, we enjoyed our meal at Hanamal 24. The service was very attentive, and the restaurant provided an authentic taste of Europe in downtown Haifa.

Vicky Cristina Tapas and Wine Bar Not kosher 17b Hatahana, Tel Aviv Tel: (03) 736-7272

With the impending closure of Cerveceria after four years of excellence, Tel Aviv is losing one of its few great tapas bars. Fortunately for fans of these Spanish specialties, Vicky Cristina Tapas and Wine Bar, now in its seventh year, is still going strong and showing no signs of slowing down.

Vicky Cristina, with its cavernous main room and two al fresco areas, is a sprawling presence in the popular Tachana compound. In spite of its size, we received very attentive personal service. A waiter not even assigned to our table came over to ask if we perhaps wanted an outdoor heater moved closer to us.

As a wine bar, Vicky Cristina places little emphasis on cocktails, but the house sangria is a nice blend of red wine and citrus, with a complex undertone of spice (NIS 42). In the winter, it may be ordered warm.

Equally refreshing and distinctive is the clara con limon (NIS 28), a kind of shandy combining beer and bitter lemon.

The food menu comprises six categories: Delicatessen (a selection of cold cuts and/or cheeses); Verduras (Vegetables, including salads); Classics; Mariscos y Pesca (Fish and Seafood); Carne (Meat); and Specials. The small plates make it possible to plan an adventurous meal by sampling one from each category.

The Delicatessen section, which features primarily cold cuts and cheeses, led off with the Pan de la Casa (NIS 18). This house bread – a warm, baguette-style roll with a crispy crust and fluffy interior – was served with a mild salsa spiked with olive oil and garlic; but it was best saved for accompanying the dishes to come.

Among the Classics was Queso Frito (NIS 39) – fried Bouche cheese served with onion marmalade and a spicy tomato and pepper sauce. The white goat cheese was battered and fried to a beautiful golden brown, the crunchy exterior a nice counterpoint to the soft interior. The onion marmalade was barely noticeable in the zesty sauce, but that did not detract from this great dish built around the rich cheese.

From the seafood subcategory of the Seafood and Fish section, our knowledgeable waitress recommended the Chiparones a la Plancha (NIS 43) – seared purple calamari with red onion, chili oil, herbs and lemon. The understated heat allowed the freshness of the expertly seasoned squid to shine through.

Our fish selection was taken from the Specials list, thanks once again to a suggestion from the waitress. The Pescado Ta’amal (NIS 58) was fillet of red drum fish steamed inside a charred corn husk with mango salsa, lemon and jalapeno pepper. The perfectly cooked white sea fish melted in the mouth, while the chili imparted just the right amount of heat.

Paella is a dish that is sine qua non in a Spanish restaurant, and we were happy to find it in the Vegetables category as well. The Vegan Paella (NIS 49) – rice in vegetable stock and coconut cream with truffle oil, mushrooms, zucchini, chestnuts, red onion and herbs – was a pleasant surprise: one of the best vegan dishes I have had in a while.

Our waitress practically insisted we try the Maiz Blanco (NIS 29) – lightly grilled white corn in a provolone cheese fondue sauce sprinkled with red paprika. The fresh corn was as sweet as sugar cane and transported me back to the US, where the white corn in season was something we waited for all year long.

Of the four desserts on the menu, three of them featured chocolate. The Helado (NIS 42) – soft vanilla ice cream with hazelnut sauce, candied cashew and almond tuile – would appeal to anyone who likes Ferrero Rocher candy, while the Chocolate Oscuro (NIS 42) was flourless (glutenfree) chocolate cake in the unusual shape of rectangular bars. The chocolate cake was decadently rich and was a special treat when paired a la mode with the ice cream.

Throughout the meal, we enjoyed the recorded flamenco music, which added to the restaurant’s pleasant ambience. Several evenings a week, flamenco music is performed live.

Oratorio Restaurant , Kosher 1 Rehov Yair Street, Zichron Ya’acov Open for dinner Sunday to Friday, 6:30 p.m. to 10 p.m.

A concert of flavors at Oratorio.The gourmet restaurant in Zichron Ya’acov is a true classic.

The Elma Arts Complex in Zichron Ya’acov and its restaurant Oratorio hold a special place in my heart. Before the structure was turned into a concert hall with a gourmet restaurant, it was a Kupat Holim vacation home. We spent several summer breaks there with two small girls, enjoying the brisk sea air and walks along the sandy beach.

Forty years on, and the place has been transformed by the vision of local resident Lily Elstein. When she heard that the iconic building, designed by Yaakov Rechter, was going to be torn down, she decided to renovate it instead. Today, audiences enjoy classical music concerts in the auditorium, as well as the imaginative creations of chef Gil Aviram and sous-chef Peleg Ezra. A meal at Oratorio is an experience not to be missed.




Dish at Oratorio.

We settled down at a table for two, and the attentive staff could not have been more helpful. It was explained to us that the first course comes in the form of tapas, many different kinds laid out on an adjacent bar, and it was self-service. Later we would order a main course, which our waitress would bring to the table.

The tapas bar offered a very wide selection of tastes, many vegetarian but also some ceviche and meat choices. Among the dishes that stood out were a fresh whole mushroom salad marinated in a sweet chili sauce with a touch of pepperiness which was very welcome on a cold evening; a wild rice salad garnished with pomegranate seeds and herbs; and chunks of baked aubergine soaked in date syrup. The carpaccio – thinly sliced salted beef – was swimming in a sea of olive oil, which I found offputting. The ceviche of salmon also did not have eye appeal. More slices of fried eggplant found their way onto delicious homemade bruschetta. In sum, the vegetarian options were the best bet as far as the appetizers were concerned.

There was also a thick vegetarian soup at the buffet. It was described as vichyssoise, which is made with potatoes and leeks and is usually served cold. This one was nicely hot and satisfying, although the potatoes seemed to overpower the leeks.

For the main course, my companion chose the lamb shank.

The tender crispy lamb was perfectly cooked, falling away from the bone but still pleasantly chewy. The accompanying bok choy was oily, and the carrot puree tasted as though someone in the kitchen had tipped a whole packet of cumin into the mix. I like cumin, but it is a very powerful spice and must be used with a gentle touch.

My main course was goose rillettes with red cabbage, served on a homemade brioche. This consisted of shredded roast goose in a rich brown sauce. The brioche was perfect for absorbing the delicious gravy. The side dish was a brilliant concoction, both visually and gastronomically. It consisted of five vegetable purees laid out on a plate – a real work of art. There were beet puree (a rich purple); parsley (vivid green); corn (bright yellow); sweet potato (orange); and Jerusalem artichoke (greige).

The hearty red wine to accompany this feast was Bat Shlomo, 2014 Red Blend (NIS 190 or NIS 45 a glass). You can also take the house wine at NIS 32 a glass.

There were several dessert choices, but we plumped for our usual favorites – lemon for me, chocolate for my companion. The lemon curd with crumble and Swiss meringue was as good as expected. The chocolate dish, called Only Chocolate, had the sweet brown stuff appear in five different incarnations – jelly, cream, cake, ganache and crumble. The waiter also insisted we try the dessert called The Pink. This was a pretty plate of pink goodies – macaroon, marshmallow, Turkish delight and creamed berries. It looked beautiful, and the taste did not disappoint.

Dan Hotel Restaurant Kosher 99 Hayarkon St., Tel Aviv Tel: (03) 520-2525

For the third consecutive year, Israel is participating in the prestigious international culinary festival, imaginatively named Round Tables. The event, sponsored by American Express, brings over some of the world’s top chefs to work together with Israeli chefs to produce outstanding one-of-a-kind meals.

The only kosher restaurant participating in the festival is Hayarkon 99, the flagship restaurant of the Dan Tel Aviv Hotel, which has the distinction of being the city’s first luxury hotel and a historical building in its own right.

The chef, Oved Alfia, will be joined by Andreu Genestra, the owner of a restaurant of the same name on the Spanish island of Mallorca, which was awarded a coveted Michelin star two years ago. Alfia visited Genestra, who is 37, and worked with him on some of the food that will be served during the Round Tables festival and explained the limitations of kashrut.

“He already knew a great deal about Jewish food,” says the 51-year-old top chef, whose parents immigrated to Israel from Syria. “I was impressed by how much he knew of Jewish history and tradition. Also, he grows all the herbs and spices for his cuisine in the restaurant garden.”

Ahead of the festival, my dining companion and I had the opportunity to sample some of the hotel’s culinary creations.

The restaurant at the Dan is small and can seat about 50 diners. Crisp snow-white linen tablecloths and napkins, shining flatware and fine china all hinted at the splendor to come.

While we munched on crusty whole grain bread and grainstudded crackers, all made in the hotel kitchen, an amuse-gueule arrived, listed as “Empanada, cauliflower cream, caramelized onions and pine nuts.” The tiny tidbit was served on a shiny flat pebble from the hotel garden. We could have eaten 10 of these, but one and a half each had to suffice.

For the first course, a large plate dotted with little mounds of chopped food was next to arrive.

One of these, described as “Tartare of tomato,” was fresh skinned tomato with black olives and quite a hot chili flavor. Another was made from mashed banana and herbs, slightly sweet and peppery.

There were also little piles of chopped raw fish, highly flavored with leek, shallot, coriander and hot chili, the classical Peruvian “tiger milk” marinade.

For the main course I chose the pink trout, baked with potato slices, pickled beetroot cubes and pickled onion (NIS 109). It was served with a creamy white horseradish sauce which blended well with the acidic vegetables.

My companion chose the skewered lamb, which was very tender with a crispy surface and soft chewy meat inside (NIS 109).

Julienned chili pepper made an unusual side dish. The accompanying salad, flavored with citrus vinaigrette and served with hazelnuts and chopped dates, was very good.

The dessert menu offered a wide choice (NIS 42 to NIS 46). On the advice of our waiter Pinhas, who has worked at the Dan for 40 years, I chose the Apple Gratin with Chantilly cream. It was a crunchy biscuit base topped with warm sweet apple slices and was excellent, although the “cream” was a poor approximation of the real thing. My companion chose the Guanaja chocolate fondant, a rich dessert that was part cake, part candy, with an orange sauce.

We ended our meal with an espresso and a pot of mint water for the insomniac of the duo.

The Round Tables festival begins on October 29 and runs until November 10. The price of a meal at the Dan Tel Aviv during the festival is NIS 239.

Tapeo Restauran, Not kosher 16 Ha’arba’a St., Tel Aviv; Tel: (03) 624-0484 9 Arieh Shenkar St., Herzliya; Tel: (09) 954-6699

Tapeo, the two-restaurant chain that is one of the country’s pioneers in introducing Israelis to authentic Spanish tapas, never rests on its laurels. It is constantly adding dishes and adjusting their seasonality, while it recently inaugurated a new slate of creative cocktails. Tapas aficionados will especially appreciate what the kitchens have planned next: Michelin-star chef Oriol Rovira of Els Casals in Catalonia will be a guest chef next month (November 6 at Tapeo in Tel Aviv, and November 7 at Tapeo in Herzliya).

The Tapeo menu is best perused while sipping one of the restaurant’s specialty cocktails. The Pistolero (NIS 46), for example – mezcal, triple sec, agave syrup, basil, chili, vanilla and lime, served neat in a martini glass and garnished with a fiery red pepper – packs a double punch, thanks to the two different kinds of liquor and the piquant spices.

Another good choice is the Sangria Roja (NIS 34), made in-house with red wine from Spain, brandy, cinnamon and citrus. It can be ordered with ice for a refreshing drink in the summer or warm in the winter.






The food menu at Tapeo comprises eight categories, covering a wide variety of dishes. The tapas-sized portions – and reasonable prices – meant that we were able to sample one representative from each section (with the exception of paella, which we surmised might be too filling).

The first category is Pan and Pinxtos, the tapas version of bruschetta – two small slices of toast with assorted toppings. We chose the Escabeche Pincho (NIS 32): cured sea bream and fresh asparagus on a cream of eggplant with almond. The asparagus was chopped so finely that it was barely discernible; but as an ensemble, the ingredients worked very well together.

Next came a beet salad called Remolacha (NIS 32), one of eight dishes in the Vegetales category (there are vegetarian and vegan options in many of the other categories as well).

The large chunks of roasted beetroot tossed with red onion, pine nuts and Manchego cheese in a mild green salsa formed a terrific interplay of flavors and textures.

From the Carnes (Meat) category, we chose the Solomillo (NIS 46): aged sirloin steak with a green garlic sauce and demi-glace. The meat, grilled to a perfect medium, was as succulent as you would find in a steakhouse, enhanced nicely by the distinctive sauce.

Barramundi (NIS 46), our knowledgeable waitress informed us, is no longer imported from Australia but is farmed in freshwater ponds in Israel. Here it makes its appearance in the Ceviche section, marinated in tequila and lime with fresh herbs.

Besides also being tossed with green beans in a chipotle pepper sauce, there was a welcome seasonal addition: small cubes of mango. The freshness of the raw white fish was evident, while the touch of sweetness from the fruit provided delectable counterpoint to the spiciness of the tangy marinade.

As we pondered our choices in the Mariscos (Seafood) category, our waitress gave us a recommendation: Calamari con judias (NIS 42) – stirfried calamari with black beans in a chipotle sauce. We were very happy we followed her advice. Both the calamari and beans were cooked to an excellent al dente texture, while the smoky chili sauce delivered a pleasant tingle of heat with each mouthful.

We had no hesitation in choosing from the three classic Spanish dishes in the Clasico section: croquetas of goose breast and mushroom in a béchamel sauce (NIS 32). The three crispy balls containing premium fillings in rich, creamy sauce exploded into flavor with each bite.

There was a separate dessert menu which, not surprisingly, contained churros (NIS 36), making our choice of the popular Spanish treat a no-brainer. Although we had only enough room for one dessert, the five buttery sticks were enough for two to share. The thin crullers sprinkled with cinnamon sugar were just right: a little crunch on the outside, yielding to soft gooiness on the inside. Accompanied by decadent dips of chocolate ganache and toffee, the warm churros were the ideal finale to a memorable meal.

Raisa Restaurant, Not kosher 8 Rabbi Yohanan St., Jaffa Tel: 052-449-9188

Food served at Raisa restaurant in Jaffa. (photo credit: Courtesy)

Situated in the heart of the Jaffa Flea Market (Shuk Hapishpishim), Raisa is the kind of restaurant that everyone wants in their neighborhood. Chef Uri Levy combines the finest in locally sourced ingredients for a gastronomic sensation that, together with a stylish, relaxed atmosphere, makes a visit there an appealing dining experience.

Upon entering, one is immediately struck by the warm, welcoming atmosphere of the restaurant. There is a large bar in the center – that is packed on weekend nights – and seating areas inside and on the sidewalk.

Sitting outside, my dining companion and I were immediately served delicious cocktails, setting the tone for an evening of fine food.

We began with the lamb cigars (NIS 38). Served with tehina, the cigars were crisp and crunchy on the outside, while the meat inside was juicy and tender. This was comfort food at its best.

Next up was the roasted cauliflower with black tehina (NIS 44). Roasted perfectly, the cauliflower was buttery in tenderness, and the florets were nicely browned and had a bit of crispiness.

This was followed by tuna tartare served with eggplant and herbs on thin slices of pita (NIS 56). The dish was very nicely flavored, yet subtle enough to let the fish speak for itself.

We were then presented with fish carpaccio with watermelon, mint, cilantro, shallots and chili (NIS 56).

The fish was so fresh that it melted in the mouth, and the chili added a snappy textural kick, which made a nice contrast to the sweet watermelon.

After a bit of a breather and two more cocktails, it was on to the main dishes. First up was the lamb and chicken shwarma served on a flatbread with tehina, tomatoes and chili (NIS 68). The meat was cooked to perfection, moist, juicy, well seasoned, with every ingredient playing off each other like a chamber ensemble. It looked like the shwarma was going to be difficult to eat and I was worried I’d end up dripping it all over myself, but it was much easier to eat than it looked.

This was followed by a Middle Eastern classic, arayes: grilled pita stuffed with rich, seasoned minced lamb (NIS 58). Surrounded by creamy tehina, it was delicious and surprisingly not greasy (unlike how minced lamb often tends to be).

Last, we were presented with a grilled tuna fillet on a bed of artichoke, olives, capers, mangold tomatoes in a crab sauce. The tuna was crisp on the outside, but the inside was absolutely perfect: not a bit overdone nor underdone. As I cut into it, the fish fell apart on the knife and slowly melted on the tongue.

For dessert, we shared the homemade cheesecake (NIS 36).

The consistency and texture were on point, and I consider myself to be a bit of a cheesecake snob.

Overall, it was a delicious dinner.

Everything we had was fresh, flavorful and prepared with just the right amount of ingredients.

Service was exceptional. The wait staff were constantly attentive to filling our water glasses, and when a dish was finished, the plate was whisked off the table. A wonderful place for an intimate date or a large, lively group.

La Regence Restaurant , King David Hotel, Jerusalem Kosher Sunday through Thursday, 6:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.

There are times when a chef can be too talented for his own good. David Biton, longtime chef of the King David Hotel’s flagship restaurant La Regence, has created a sterling reputation for his inventive use of fresh local ingredients in creating superb meat-based dishes that have satiated world leaders and tourists alike. A few years ago, I had one of the best steak dinners of my life there.

Biton recently unveiled a winter tasting menu, available through the end of March, that offers an adventurous gastronomic journey through 11 courses and numerous styles, some more successful than others.

Be prepared to sit a spell. The evening takes a minimum of two hours, and while it isn’t any more filling than ordering a regular meal, you’re going to walk out thinking that you’ve spent a good part of your night eating.






La Regence.



“We offer a Mediterranean menu based on fresh local ingredients. Aside from salt and pepper, you won’t find any spices in my kitchen,” said Biton, explaining that he preferred to let the natural flavors of the dishes come to the forefront.

Biton has decided to challenge the diner with some unorthodox dishes that can be both inspired and perplexing. The menu got off to a positive start with an inventive selection of homemade, oddly shaped crackers that included tapioca, wild rice and beef served with a piquant horseradish sauce We looked forward to the goose liver tart on pralines, expecting a creamy creation. Instead, it consisted of jelly-like crystals that tasted fine, but the texture left something to be desired.

The same with the Jerusalem artichoke flan – a block of jiggly mousse that bore the distinct flavor of the Mediterranean delicacy but with a consistency that was somewhat offputting.

More enjoyable was the chicken consommé, served in a novel manner. Our pleasant server turned over an upside-down mug to reveal a forest of smoky spices. She then presented us with a tea bag-looking device. She said that after she filled the mug with steaming water, we should let the bag float for 15 seconds and then remove it. The result was an enchanting clear broth with a distinct barbecued taste that went down very easily.

Even more successful and satisfying were dishes like cold red snapper served with fennel cream and tarragon with smoked potato chips, and the sublime goose-filled ravioli with mushrooms, onions and peas.

Both would have warranted a larger portion if they had been served on their own.

But the best was yet to come. The fillet of beef medallion was a succulent and tender offering, enhanced by cauliflower and garlic cream. It was impossible not to forgive any shortcomings in whatever had arrived before it.
Two more courses awaited us, however. First was a pre-dessert selection of tapioca pudding with saffron, baba au rum balls and mandarin sorbet. They were all light and refreshing, but the baba au rum lacked a punch.


But they were a nice set-up for the rich chocolate torte that closed the meal in a sinful and delightful manner. We managed to leave the splendor of the historic hotel under our own steam, but just barely.

At a hefty price of NIS 380 per person, I would think twice about ordering the tasting menu, especially when you can have the best steak in town. But for the adventurous diner with a couple of hours to spare, it will provide an evening of diversity that showcases a fearless chef who looks around his kitchen and says, “Why not?”

The tasting menu is offered until 9 p.m. and costs NIS 380 per person. Allow at least two hours for the tasting meal.

Gourmandises Restaurant ,Mehadrin Kikar Hamusica 10 Yoel Salomon St., Jerusalem Tel: (02) 566-7222 Sunday – Thursday, 8 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday, 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturday, 6 p.m. to 11 p.m. https://www.facebook.com/ gourmandisesbyyoel

French pastries.

Livnatt and Yoel Afriat were opticians in Paris with a number of their own shops, but they knew they wanted to change their careers to something that would be more easily transferable to Israel. So Yoel gave up being an optician to become a pastry chef and spent a year at Le Notre, one of Paris’s most prestigious cooking schools. Then he started his own patisserie business, selling his creations from the family home in Paris.

A chance meeting with the owner of Kikar Hamusica at a party in Paris in 2014 led to the Afriat family’s making aliya and the opening of Gourmandises by Yoel just six months later. All the pastries, breads and beautiful desserts are made by Afriat and his team from their factory in Talpiot, while the food for the restaurant is prepared by chef Oscar Zuckerman in the kitchen below the restaurant. Livnatt manages the restaurant and the catering business, which caters events at the restaurant itself for up to 200 people but also provides parve or dairy dessert buffets for weddings and other special occasions.

Many people think that Gourmandises by Yoel is just a bakery or pastry shop, but the varied menu offers so much more, so we were delighted to be invited to sample the dinner menu. In keeping with the musical theme, many of the dishes on the menu are named after French musicians.

We started our meal with a chef special – ceviche of sea bream with mango, beet, pea shoots and bulgur wheat (NIS 69). This dish was a riot of strong colors, textures and flavors and included touches of wasabi cream, citrus jelly and creamed spring peas.

Real French crepes are a weakness of mine, so it was a pleasure to try some of the savory crepes. The Jean Jacques Goldman (NIS 69) was filled with sautéed zucchini, tomatoes and cheese. It was beautifully presented so I could see the colorful filling at the top of the dish rather than a folded crepe where you can’t see the filling.

The crepe itself was fresh and light, so the focus was on the filling, and all the flavors worked well together. We also tried the Georges Brassens crepe (NIS 69), which was filled with a trio of Emmental, Camembert and Roquefort cheese. This was also a rich and tasty dish, but I preferred the first crepe with the vegetables.

Next came the Edith Piaf (NIS 69), a bruschetta with eggplant, zucchini, dried tomatoes and Parmesan. The dish was well presented and colorful, but the flavors did not blend so well, and we felt that the tomato sauce overpowered the taste of the vegetables. It was still enjoyable and would make a good light meal.

Our final starter was the Waltz salad (NIS 64), made with lettuce, apple, walnut, Roquefort, mustard French dressing. While this was a pleasant salad, it lacked any unique elements, and the price was high for such a simple salad.

For mains, we chose the Michel Fugin (NIS 65) – fettucine with a creamy mushroom sauce, which was cooked perfectly al dente. The baked sea bass (NIS 119) looked like a piece of art on the plate. The fish was served atop roasted carrots, fennel and beet, with a dusting of pink almond olive oil powder and artistic drops of green sauces at the side. Although this was a nice dish overall, we felt that it was slightly too salty and needed more acidity on the fish.

The rich Barbara potato gratin (NIS 62) had a great crispy top layer with a lovely nutmeg flavor, but overall it was slightly bland and needed a sharper cheese. It was also very rich as a main course but would be ideal as a shared dish or as a smaller side dish.

Finally, we had a gnocchi chef special (NIS 69) served with roasted sweet potato and cherry tomatoes, covered in a coconut foam and flaked almonds. It was well cooked, and the sauce was light and refreshing.

The desserts were definitely the highlight of the meal. We could not resist the crepe Suzette (NIS 45) which did not disappoint, even though it lacked the kick of the flambéed orange liqueur that it is traditionally served with. It was very difficult to choose from the array of beautifully made French delicacies, but with the chef’s guidance we settled on the Snickers (NIS 38), which was rich and sweet with a touch of salted caramel to balance the flavors; and the Alliance (NIS 35), an almond mousse cake with an almond biscuit and praline mousse. It was light and fluffy and the perfect end to a very tasty meal.

Just like all the restaurants in Kikar Hamusica, there is the option to sit in the shared courtyard and enjoy the musical performances that take place most afternoons and evenings. The schedule of concerts can be found on the Kikar Hamusica website, http:// kikar-hamusica.com/en/concerts.

Whether you are looking for a light lunch, a full dinner or just an indulgent evening of authentic French pastries while enjoying the music, I highly recommend heading to Gourmandises 

Deca Kosher (mehadrin) 10 Hata’asiya St., Tel Aviv Tel: (03) 562-9900

The ‘fish and complements’ restaurant celebrates 10 years of kosher fine dining in Tel Aviv




The ‘fish and complements’ restaurant celebrates 10 years of kosher fine dining in Tel Aviv.

This year is one of special significance for the restaurant whose name derives from the Latin word for 10. The appellation was chosen because it symbolizes excellence. Now, however, it also stands for a milestone, as Deca marks its tenth anniversary in a niche that it practically pioneered: fine dining – in Hebrew, a “chef restaurant”– that is, kosher-dairy.

As a kosher restaurant that serves no meat or poultry, Deca’s starters and main courses revolve around fish and pasta, often in combination. Several of the pasta dishes, as well as salads, are ideal for vegetarians. Nonetheless, Deca specializes in fish. Indeed, the homepage of the website specifies Fish and Complements.

As befits an upscale restaurant, the full bar offers classic cocktails and six specialty ones. The Compassion (NIS 46) – vodka citron, Campari, lemon and passion – and the Green Smash (NIS 52) – gin, mojito syrup, lemon and a large basil leaf – served neat in martini glasses, are both pleasingly complex, although the fruit in the former renders it sweeter than the latter.

A meal at Deca starts with complimentary house bread and butter, or one may order focaccia (NIS 39) that comes with some excellent dips: ikra, goat cheese, tzaziki, tehina and olive oil. For some reason, the focaccia is labeled an appetizer, along with just one other dish: bouillabaisse (NIS 44), an outstanding fish soup delicately seasoned with orange and Pernod.

For a main dish, Deca’s manager recommended the red tuna sashimi (NIS 62), with roasted eggplant, olives, cherry tomatoes, radish and cucumber. The brilliantly hued raw fish was exceedingly fresh, practically melting in the mouth.

He further advised us that the pine nut and almond gnocchi (NIS 65) is very popular. The tender potato pasta – in a delectable cheese sauce with shallot, sage and honey – was certainly as good as any to be found in an Italian restaurant.

The red tuna fillet (NIS 150) is one of Deca’s signature dishes. In a first for me, we were asked how we wanted our fish grilled. The generous tuna steak was done to a perfect medium.

Paired with beet and potato gratin in a three-cheese sauce, this superb dish definitely lived up to its billing.

The black paella with salmon and red drum fish (NIS 340) is a dish meant for two to share. Served in a large skillet, the distinctive black rice, studded with morsels of flavorful fish and enhanced by a butter and Parmesan sauce, was filling and satisfying.

Deca boasts an impressive international wine list, even encompassing some exclusive wines no longer in production (and priced accordingly). The restaurant also offers its own red and white private label house wines, bottled by the Eyal Winery; only these two wines, plus featured “wines of the month,” are available by the glass.

Everything at Deca is made on the premises, including the desserts (NIS 41-62), which are prepared by a dedicated pastry chef. Two very good desserts were a study in contrasts. The caramel chocolate mousse, layered with a hazelnut ganache, was decadently rich, thick and substantial.

And the “cones” – actually, crispy “cigars” – containing a sweet, creamy cheese filling, with almond streusel and cassis cream, was light and crunchy.

Throughout our meal, the service was impeccable. Toward the end, the waiter poured warm water on towelettes, and then wrung them out tableside, handing them to us with tongs. Deca also pampers its customers with its adjacent complimentary private parking lot, a welcome bonus in downtown Tel Aviv – and a critical component in rendering the restaurant handicap accessible.

The spacious restaurant spans two floors, comprising a number of alcoves and rooms suitable for semiprivate meals and private events. Deca offers discounted weekday business lunches – a perk that is extended to dinner hours, as well for Diners Club card holders.

Meat and Eat Kosher 10 Sderot Oved Ben-Ami, Netanya Tel: 053-549-5229 Sunday to Thursday, noon to midnight Friday, noon to one hour before Shabbat

A CARNIVORE’S PARADISE

 
Meat and Eat in Netanya is warm and welcoming




Meat and Eat, which is the English name for the Lechem Basar chain, is a carnivore’s paradise.. (photo credit: BEN YUSTER)

As its name suggests, Meat and Eat, which is the English name for the Lechem Basar chain, is a carnivore’s paradise. The Netanya branch which opened a year ago is a sprawling place but somehow manages to convey a cozy and welcoming atmosphere, with its wall messages and pleasant lighting.


Invited to taste the food on offer, we settled into a corner table and surveyed the scene. Young and not so young couples, large Israeli families and the odd tourist made up the clientele. Quiet background music and a wellstocked bar contributed to the mood of bien-etre.

For my first course, I ordered the carpaccio – wafer-thin slices of raw sirloin in a balsamic dressing (NIS 54). The gargantuan amount of meat proved impossible to finish but was very appetizing. My companion chose spring chicken salad – another huge portion of grilled seared pargit (spring chicken) on a salad which included green beans and garlic confit, as well as the usual ingredients (NIS 68).

Another choice was quinoa salad made with organic red quinoa, beets, hazelnuts, cranberries and herbs with pomegranate dressing (NIS 52). I can’t imagine a vegan or vegetarian feeling comfortable in a place like this, but full marks for offering this alternative.

The main menu offered a variety of steaks, ranging from NIS 126 to NIS 164. One could also choose mixed meat in lafa (a very large pita) for NIS 79 or a burger trio (NIS 81).

I chose a hamburger, and it was excellent – pure meat with no fillers and piping hot, which is always a good thing.

My companion selected a very interesting dish. It consisted of pastry baked around the pan and filled with minced lamb and chickpeas. The advantage is that the filling stayed very hot for the duration of the meal. It was very flavorful, but you have to be a huge fan of cumin to enjoy this dish.

The wine to accompany the meal was a 2013 Barkan special reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, a robust and hearty accompaniment to the food being served (NIS 39 a glass).

Dessert seemed superfluous, but the manager insisted we taste the chocolate fudge with vanilla ice cream (NIS 46). I’m glad we did. It was a rich, warm, melt-in-themouth chocolate cake with some of the best parve vanilla ice cream I have ever tasted.

For a very satisfying gourmet night out in pleasant surroundings, Meat and Eat takes the biscuit.

Brasserie Restaurant 70 Ibn Givriol St Tel Aviv Tel 03 6967111

The Brasserie serves local ingredients with a French 

Situated on Tel Aviv’s bustling Ibn Gvirol, Brasserie is one of the city’s most attractive bistros. It’s classy; the service is friendly and professional; it’s good for romance or business; and the food is outstanding.

Stepping inside, it almost feels like you’re not in Tel Aviv but in some quaint bistro outside of Paris. There’s a lovely outdoor terrace in the front, filled with tables and chairs for al fresco dining, in addition to the main dining area and long bar inside.

Chef Ofir Dvir combines the finest in locally sourced ingredients with accents of French cuisine. The extensive menu features fish, seafood, meat and pasta dishes. The tasty dishes are complemented by a fine selection of wines, both local and international.





The Brasserie serves local ingredients with a French accent.

Before the appetizers appeared, we cleansed our palates with a couple of refreshing cocktails, which displayed the same nuanced flavors that make the dishes so impressive. My dining partner opted for the white sangria, while I chose a whiskey sour. What a great drink! It really sent my taste buds on a trip from sweet to spicy with a nice whiskey finish. If you’re a whiskey drinker and want something rather light and refreshing, this is a great choice.

We began our culinary journey with one of the specials of the day – a creamy blue crab soup. The soup was surprisingly light in texture and strong in flavor and, together with the tasty homemade bread, it was an ideal way to begin our meal.

This was followed by the endive and Roquefort salad (NIS 54). Endive is a notoriously difficult vegetable for those unfamiliar with using it. Though fragile in appearance, it has a rather bitter taste. Here, the endive was finely sliced and served in a mound with nuts, Roquefort cheese and a sauce that mellowed the bitterness without overpowering it. I would go back to the restaurant just for this rich and delicious salad. It was creative in both taste and presentation.

For the main course, we had the beef fillet (NIS 134) accompanied by a piece of bone marrow. The meat was generous in proportion, and the seasoning was just right. Normally I have to add a lot of salt to my fillets to bring them up to my preferred salt level, but this was seasoned perfectly with just salt and pepper, with no extra seasoning needed.

Next up was the sirloin steak in a Madagascar pepper sauce (NIS 136).This steak was absolutely delightful.

Cooked perfectly medium/rare, it was very tender and juicy. The pepper sauce with cream and brandy made it even more addictive. I cleaned my plate of that sauce using anything I could find, except my fingers! My dining partner and I tried to eat it as slowly as possible so the experience wouldn’t end. Both main dishes came with a side of thin, crisp French fries.

For dessert, it was recommended that we try the decadent dark chocolate cake, as well as the cheesecake (NIS 39 each). Both were sinfully good.

Brasserie has carefully preserved an old world atmosphere while serving top-of-the-line meals. So when you’re looking to combine a gourmet meal with elegant atmosphere and nearly faultless service, you’ll find that Brasserie has it covered.