Friday, July 20, 2018

Zoodles with Vibrant Tomato-Corn Sauce, a recipe from the Bard of Bat Yam, Poet Laureate of Zion, Stephen Darori





Time 30-60 Minutes


Ingredients:
2 onions
¼ cup olive oil
2 lb. cherry tomatoes
2 ears of corn
kosher salt
black pepper

Directions:

Cut the onions into quarter rounds. Sauté in the olive oil for 5 minutes.
Add the cherry tomatoes, cover, and cook for another 15-20 minutes.
Cut the corn kernels off the cob and add to the tomato mixture. Cook for 10 more minutes.
Season with salt and freshly cracked black pepper to taste.
Serve over zucchini noodles.
For the zucchini noodles:
3 large zucchinis
2–3 tbsp. oil
1 tsp. kosher salt

Directions

Related image
Spiralizer

To make zucchini noodles, you’ll need a spiralizer of some sort. Spiralize the zucchini and put it on a couple of pieces of paper towel. Cover with paper towel and press down to absorb some of the moisture. Let zucchini sit for 10–15 minutes. Replace the paper towel if necessary. To cook, place 2-3 tbsp. oil in a frying pan over high heat. Once the oil is very hot, add the zucchini and the salt, and toss it for 2 minutes or so. Be careful not to let the zucchini overcook and become soggy and watery. (Depending on the size of your frying pan, you might need to do the zucchini in several batches. You don’t want to overcrowd the pan.) Remove from pan; serve immediately.

Note: You can prepare the raw zucchini noodles a few days in advance. Store, refrigerated, in an airtight Ziploc bag, with a couple of pieces of paper towel.



Classic Spaghetti Bolognese, a recipe by the Bard Of Bat Yam, Poet Laureate of Zion, Stephen Darori

Spaghetti Bolognese is a dish loved the world over. This Classic Spaghetti Bolognese is cooked long and low to leave you with a rich, deep ragu that is loaded with flavor. A classic family favorite.



This is a slow cooking dish but it is worth the wait. The key to developing the flavour is to let the sauce cook over a very low heat for 90 minutes. This elongated cooking time, means the dried herbs soften and mellow into the sauce and the onion and garlic melt into the sauce.

When you add the ground beef to the onion mixture, make sure you use a spatula or wooden spoon to really break the meat down. This helps it to absorb the flavours and gives the final sauce a melt in the mouth feel.

Although the recipe requires you to brown the beef, don’t let it get too crispy as this can affect the texture of the final sauce.



Don’t be alarmed by the addition of sugar. Most canned tomatoes are a little acidic and the sugar helps to enhance the tomato taste and remove any sour notes.

If you have read any other recipe here on Easy Pasta Sauces, you will know that we are big advocates of using the pasta cooking water to create a thick saucy emulsion. That is vital here. Once the pasta is cooked, add the pasta back to the pan along with some reserved cooking water and half of the bolognese. This is all cooked together to get the sauce into the pasta. It really does make a difference. You can still spoon a big spoonful over the top, but the simple step of cooking the pasta in some of the sauce will make all the difference.



The recipe below makes enough sauce for 8 people, if you want a smaller amount hover over the servings, you can use the slider bar to reduce the servings. Or freeze half for a quick weekday meal. It tastes fabulous after freezing. Just remove the ragu from the freezer in the morning and it will be ready to heat up when you get home in the evening.
Serving Suggestions:

Side: We think this classic spaghetti bolognese is best paired with some sort of bread. Either some warm ciabatta or plenty of garlic bread.

Wine: Because of the slow cooking the tomatoes in this dish can take a big bright red wine. Try a Shiraz or a Chianti. Or go more traditional and pair this dish with a wine made with the Nebbiolo grape: a Barolo or Barbaresco.
If red isn’t your thing then stay with the regionality of this dish and serve this up with a sparkling Lambrusco, unusual but a great wine pairing.







Spaghetti Bolognese is a dish loved the world over. This Classic Spaghetti Bolognese is cooked long and low to leave you with a rich, deep ragu that is loaded with flavor. A classic family favorite.
Course Main Course
Cuisine Italian
Prep Time 10 minutes
Cook Time 2 hours 10 minutes
Total Time 2 hours 20 minutes
Servings 8


Ingredients

2 large onions
2 tbsp olive oil
2 lb ground beef (1kg)
4 garlic cloves
3/4 cup red wine (180 ml)
3 beef bouillon cubes (like oxo)
2 x 28oz can crushed tomato (880g)
1 tbsp sugar
1 tbsp Worcestershire Sauce
1 tbsp dried oregano
1 tbsp dried Italian mixed herbs
1/2 cup water (125ml)
salt and pepper

To Serve
1.5 lb spaghetti (680g)
parmesan cheese

Instructions

To make the sauce

  • Peel and finely chop the onions.
  • Heat the olive oil in a large pan.
  • Add onion and cook over a medium heat for 5 minutes and cook until they are softened and lightly golden.
  • Turn the heat up to high, add beef and use a spatula or wooden spoon to really break the mince down as it browns. 
  • Crumble over the beef bouillon cubes and stir well to coat the meat.
  • Peel the garlic and grate or crush it into the mixture. Stir well.
  • Add in the red wine and let it sizzle for a a couple of minutes.
  • Add in the crushed tomatoes, sugar, Worcestershire Sauce, oregano, Italian mixed herbs and water.
  • Stir well and bring the mixture to a simmer.
  • Put the lid on and cook over a very low heat for 1 1/2 hours; stirring occasionally.
  • Once the time is up, increase the heat to medium and cooke without the lid for a further 20 minutes.
  • Taste the sauce and then add extra salt and pepper to taste.
  • At this point you can cook the pasta or cool the sauce and refrigerate it until later.

To cook the Spaghetti
  1. Bring a very large pan of water to the boil, once boiling salt it generously and cook the pasta until al-dente. (1 minute less than the packet suggests)
  2. Reserve a cup of the pasta cooking water and then drain the pasta.
  3. Place the pasta back into the pan and add the reserved water. Place over a high heat and add half of the bolognese sauce. Stir well until the sauce has thickened around the pasta.
  4. Serve the pasta with extra sauce spooned on top.
  5. Garnish with parmesan.

Roasted Cauliflower with Creamy Garlic Spaghetti, a recipe by the Bard of Bat Yam, Poet Laureate of Zion, Stephen Darori


This Roasted Cauliflower with Creamy Garlic Spaghetti is an elegant yet simple vegetarian pasta dinner. Perfect for entertaining or meatless Monday.



Roasting the cauliflower in the oven turns something plain into something super special. The edges caramelize, the flavour sweetens and the texture is beautifully yielding without a hint of soggy. Roasted Cauliflower will please vegetarians and carnivores alike. Who knew cauliflower could be so delicious.

The creamy garlic and thyme sauce comes together quickly and coats each strand of pasta with a silky creamy sauce that only uses 2/3 cup of cream for 4 people. You get decadent and elegant without the excessive calories.



We used spaghetti today but any long pasta will work with this dish. If you prefer a smaller shape than something flat like a farfalle/bow-tie pasta would work too.

Avoid tubular pasta or shells as they will fill up with the creamy sauce and you might find there isn’t enough sauce to coat everything beautifully.


Serving Suggestions:

Side: Swerve the bread and instead go for a crisp bright salad to balance the creamy sauce. Dress baby kale leaves with a lemon and olive oil dressing.

Wine: To cut through the creamy sauce pick an unoaked chardonnay or a dry pinot gris. For the red wine lovers something light like a Barbera d’Asti or a Merlot will work with the garlic and cream.


Buon Appetito
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Roasted Cauliflower with Creamy Garlic Spaghetti


This Roasted Cauliflower with Creamy Garlic Spaghetti is an elegant yet simple vegetarian pasta dinner. Perfect for entertaining or meatless Monday.

Course Main Course
Cuisine Italian
Prep Time 5 minutes
Cook Time 25 minutes
Total Time 30 minutes
Servings 4

Ingredients

For the Cauliflower
1 head cauliflower
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 tsp thyme leaves
salt and freshly-ground black pepper

For the Pasta
11 oz dried spaghetti (320g)
1 tbsp butter
1 tsp olive oil
4 garlic cloves
2/3 cup heavy cream (See notes)
1/2 tsp thyme leaves
1/2 teaspoon salt
black pepper

Instructions

  1. Preheat you oven to 400º F/200ºC.
  2. Line a large baking tray with parchment paper.
  3. Remove the outer leaves of the cauliflower and cut the florets into large bite sized chunks.
  4. Lay the cauliflower out in a single layer and drizzle over the EVOO. Season generously with salt and pepper and roast in the oven for 25 minutes until tender and caramelized on the edges. Remove from the oven and set aside until needed.
  5. Bring a large pot of water to boil and then add a good amount of salt.
  6. Add the spaghetti and cook until al dente. (usually around 1 minute less than the packet suggests)
  7. Meanwhile, peel and finely slice the garlic.
  8. Heat the butter and olive oil in a deep fry pan over low high heat.
  9. Add the garlic and sauté for 2 minutes (don't let them colour).
  10. Add the cream and bring to boil.
  11. Add in the thyme leaves, salt and pepper, then turn heat down to low and simmer for 3 minutes.
  12. Before draining the pasta, scoop a mugs worth of pasta water out and keep to one side.
  13. After reserving the cooking water drain the pasta in a colander.
  14. Transfer the pasta and ¼ cup of reserved pasta water into the pan with the sauce.
  15. Add more cooking water if needed.
  16. Stir in the roasted cauliflower and serve with grated parmesan and thyme leaves.

Chicken, Spinach and Garlic Pasta with Pangrattato, a recipe from the Bard of Bat Yam, Poet Laureate of Zion , Stephen Darori

Juicy chunks of chicken, stirred through a creamy spinach and garlic pasta, topped with a salty and crunchy pangrattato. This Chicken Spinach and Garlic Pasta is a great mid-week meal.



Pangrattato is also known as poor mans parmesan, but don’t let that put you off. The buttery crispy crumb is fabulous with the creamy soft pasta. You could serve this Chicken, Spinach and Garlic Pasta with a simple grating of parmesan, it will be delicious. But try the pangrattao, it will be a revelation.

When you are making the pangrattato, once it has got to the crispy golden stage, remove it from the heat and then remove it from the pan. It will continue to brown in the hot pan and can quickly turn black.


Serving Suggestion:

Side: The chicken and spinach in this dish add plenty of nutrients to this pasta dish. But to brighten the meal further this is great served with a simple salad of fresh spinach and sautéed mushrooms. Top it with a little of the pangrattato to complete the meal

Wine: This Chicken, Spinach and Garlic Pasta with Pangrattato is rich, creamy and packed with garlic. This means it can carry a lightly oaked white wine like a chardonnay or an oaked Viognier.



Chicken Spinach and Garlic Pasta with Pangrattato Recipe

Juicy chunks of chicken, stirred through a creamy spinach and garlic pasta, topped with a salty and crunch pangrattato. This Chicken Spinach and Garlic Pasta is a great mid-week meal. From Easy Pasta Sauces.
Course Main Course
Cuisine Italian
Prep Time 5 minutes
Cook Time 20 minutes
Total Time 25 minutes
Servings 4


Ingredients

For the Pangrattato
1 tsp olive oil
1 tsp butter
1/2 cup fresh or dried breadcrumbs
salt and pepper

For the Pasta
2 large chicken breasts
1/4 tsp salt
1/4 tsp pepper
1 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp butter
3 large garlic cloves
1 cup dry white wine
1 cup heavy cream
12 oz long pasta
2 cups spinach

Instructions

To make the Pangrattato
Melt the butter in a skillet with the olive oil and once it starts to foam add the breadcrumbs.
Cook over a medium high heat until they are crisp and golden.
Remove the breadcrumbs from the pan to prevent them burning then seasoning generously with salt and pepper.

To make the Pasta
  • Chop the chicken into large chunks, Season with salt and pepper.
  • Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat, and add the chicken pieces.
  • Cook for 4 minutes over a medium high heat until the chicken is golden.
  • Turn the heat down to low.
  • Add in the butter and then crush in the garlic.
  • Cook for 2 minutes before adding the wine.
  • Bring the wine to a boil. Let it bubble for 5 minutes until it has evaporated by half.
  • Add in the heavy cream and simmer gently over a low heat.
  • Meanwhile cook the pasta.
  • Bring a large pan of water to the boil. Salt it generously and then add the pasta. Cook until al-dente.
  • Reserve a cup of the cooking water and then drain the pasta.
  • Add the drained pasta to the sauce and stir well. Add in a couple of tablespoons of the reserved water. Until the pasta is well coated and the sauce is at the constancy you prefer.
  • Add in the spinach, stir and then serve sprinkled with the pangrattato.

Venetian Chicken Pasta with Pinenuts, Rosemary and Sultanas


This Venetian Chicken pasta with Pinenuts, Rosemary and Sultanas is a rich and delicious pasta dinner; just grab a supermarket rotisserie chicken and follow our top tips for creating this fabulous dinner in under half an hour.



The sauce in this Venetian chicken pasta is rich and sticky from the chicken juices whilst the sweet sultanas work amazingly with the woody fragrant rosemary. This dish is a comforting yet different chicken pasta.

If you have time you can roast up your own chickens, it will be outstanding, but for a normal mid-week meal a store bought rotisserie chicken and a few short cuts will still give you a delicious dinner. The recipe below is for a store bought chicken, but check the notes for adapting this recipe.



When you buy a rotisserie chicken, if any juice/jelly has collected in the bottom of the container/bag, reserve that. It will be packed with flavor and also gelatin that will help to thicken the sauce.

A chicken stock cube is melted into butter and with the help of some pasta cooking water, it recreates the wonderful juices you get from a roast chicken.


Serving Suggestions:

Side: The roast chicken juices in this pasta make it perfect for serving with a slice of ciabatta to soak up any remaining sauce. However as the pasta is quite rich, we would suggest a single slice of bread and a crisp green salad.

Wine: The sweet sultanas in this dish and the deeply savoury chicken make it an interesting dish to pair wine with. We like the slightly unusual pairing of a Viognier, The complex flavors balance the sweetness and umami elements in this chicken pasta.
For red wine lovers a pinot noir would be a great choice.




Venetian Chicken pasta with Pinenuts, Rosemary and Sultanas
This Venetian Chicken pasta with Pinenuts, Rosemary and Sultanas is a rich and delicious pasta dinner; just grab a supermarket rotisserie chicken and follow our top tips for creating this fabulous dinner in under half an hour.
Course Main Course
Cuisine Italian
Prep Time 10 minutes
Cook Time 15 minutes
Total Time 25 minutes
Servings 4

Ingredients

1 rotisserie chicken
12 oz pappardelle (340g)
1 tbsp butter
1 tbsp olive oil
2 chicken stock cubes
3 rosemary sprigs
1/3 cup sultanas
1/4 cup toasted pine nuts

Instructions
  1. Start with the chicken.
  2. Strip the meat from the rotisserie chicken and set to one side.
  3. If any juice has collected in the rotisserie chicken packet, set this aside with the chicken.
  4. Bring a large pan of water to a boil, salt it well and add in the pasta.
  5. Set the timer for 1 minutes less than the packet suggests.
  6. Whilst the pasta is cooking, melt the butter together with the oil.
  7. Crumble in the stock cubes and let them bubble gently together.
  8. Add in the chopped leaves of the 3 rosemary sprigs and then take 1 cup of water from the pasta pan and add it to the butter mixture.
  9. Add the sultanas to the mixture and reduce the heat down to a low simmer.
  10. When the pasta has cooked, reserve a jug of the cooking water.
  11. Drain the pasta and add it to the butter and chicken stock.
  12. Stir in the chicken meat (plus any reserved juice) and 1/2 cup of the reserved water.
  13. Cook over a low heat until the pasta is well coated and the chicken has heated through.
  14. Add more cooking water if needed.
  15. Serve topped with the toasted pine nuts.

Thursday, July 19, 2018

Espagnole Sauce , its history and a recipe by the Bard of Bat Yam, Poet Laureate of Zion , Stephen Darori


Espagnole sauce






Beef with espagnole sauce and French fries

Espagnole sauce (French pronunciation: ​[ɛspaɲɔl]) is a basic brown sauce, and is one of Auguste Escoffier's five mother saucesof classic French cooking. This sauce was already compiled in different Spanish cooking handbooks of the late 19th century,[1]and Escoffier popularized the recipe, which is still followed today.[2]

Espagnole has a strong taste, and is rarely used directly on food. As a mother sauce, it serves as the starting point for many derivatives, such as sauce africaine, sauce bigarade, sauce bourguignonne, sauce aux champignons, sauce charcutière, sauce chasseur, sauce chevreuil, and demi-glace. Hundreds of other derivatives are in the classical French repertoire.

Escoffier included a recipe for a Lenten espagnole sauce, using fish stock and mushrooms, in Le Guide culinaire, but doubted its necessity.

Preparation

The basic method of making espagnole is to prepare a very dark brown roux, to which veal stock or water is added, along with browned bones, pieces of beef, vegetables, and various seasonings. This blend is allowed to slowly reduce while being frequently skimmed. The classic recipe calls for additional veal stock to be added as the liquid gradually reduces, but today, water is generally used, instead. Tomato paste or pureed tomatoes are added towards the end of the process, and the sauce is further reduced.


Etymology

Although espagnole is the French word for "Spanish", the sauce's connection to Spanish cuisine is argued by French cooks. According to Louis Diat, the creator of vichyssoise and the author of the classic Gourmet's Basic French Cookbook:

"There is a story that explains why the most important basic brown sauce in French cuisine is called sauce espagnole, or Spanish sauce. According to the story, the Spanish cooks of Louis XIII's bride, Anne, helped to prepare their wedding feast, and insisted upon improving the rich brown sauce of France with Spanish tomatoes. This new sauce was an instant success, and was gratefully named in honor of its creators."

In Kettner's Book of the Table, published in 1877, an entirely different explanation is given:


When the Bourbons made their way to the Spanish throne under Louis XV, and when Spanish fashions came back to Paris, the French cooks took a hint from the Spanish pot-au-feu—the olla podrida—and produced a variation of their brown sauce which they called "Spanish". The essential principle of the French pot-au-feu was beef; the essential principle of the Spanish was bacon, ham, the red Estremadura sausage—all well smoked... The Duc de St. Simon sent home marvellous accounts of the hams of Montanches; there grew up a rage for Spanish hams; and the French were not to blame, for they have no hams of their own which have any reputation. Great as they are in pig's flesh, they are poor hands at bacon and ham; and the treasures of Montanches were a revelation to them. They ran wild after ham... And so, by introducing the flavour of the Estremadura bacon and ham into the old brown sauce of the French, there came into being the Spanish sauce... The hams of Montanches are not too plentiful in this world of sorrow, and the cooks came to be satisfied with any ham—even with French ham, which is little better than salted pork. So the meaning of the prescription was lost; the peculiarity of the Spanish sauce passed away, and its name became a puzzle.The name "Kettner" in the title refers to Auguste Kettner, former chef to Napoleon III, who emigrated to England and in 1867 opened a restaurant in Soho—Kettner's—one of the oldest restaurants in London.


Espagnole: A Basic Brown Sauce  Recipe



75 mins
Prep: 15 mins,
Cook: 60 mins
Yield: 8 servings (2 oz each)



Espagnole (pronounced like the word for Spanish: español) is a basic brown sauce that is one of the five mother sauces of classical cuisine. It's also the starting point for a rich and deeply flavorful sauce called demi-glace, which is traditionally served with red meats.

Making espagnole sauce is not too different from making velouté—they're both essentially a stock-based sauces thickened with roux. Where they differ is that espagnole is made with brown stock (i.e. beef stock, and see the note below), and it includes additional ingredients, such as tomato purée (which adds color and acidity) and mirepoix, which is a fancy name for chopped up carrots, celery and onions, which add a tremendous amount of flavor and aroma.

You'll also see something called a sachet, which is simply a few dried herbs and spices bundled up in cheesecloth and tied with a long piece of cooking twine to make it easy to fish it out afterward.

To make demi-glace, you'd combine equal parts espagnole and brown stock along with additional mirepoix (and probably another sachet) and reduce it by half (hence demi). Here's a shortcut method.

What You'll Need

1/2 cup onions, diced

1/4 cup carrots, diced

1/4 cup celery, diced

1 oz clarified butter

1 oz all-purpose flour

3 cups brown stock (i.e. beef stock)

2 tbsp. tomato purée

1 bay leaf

1/2 tsp. dried thyme

3–4 fresh parsley stems

7–8 whole black peppercorns


How to Make It

  1. Fold the bay leaf, thyme, parley stems and peppercorns in a square of cheese cloth, and tie the corners with a piece of kitchen twine. Leave the string long enough so that you can tie it to the handle of your pot to make it easier to retrieve it.
  2. In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, melt the butter over a medium heat until it becomes frothy.
  3. Add the mirepoix and sauté for a few minutes until it's lightly browned. Don't let it burn, though.
  4. With a wooden spoon, stir the flour into the mirepoix a little bit at a time, until it is fully incorporated and forms a thick paste (this is your roux). Lower the heat and cook the roux for another five minutes or so, until it just starts to take on a very light brown color. Don't let it burn, though! 
  5. Using a wire whisk, slowly add the stock and tomato purée to the roux, whisking vigorously to make sure it's free of lumps.
  6. Bring to a boil, lower heat, add the sachet and simmer for about 50 minutes or until the total volume has reduced by about one-third, stirring frequently to make sure the sauce doesn't scorch at the bottom of the pan. Use a ladle to skim off any impurities that rise to the surface.
  7. Remove the sauce from the heat and retrieve the sachet. For an extra smooth consistency, carefully pour the sauce through a wire mesh strainer lined with a piece of cheesecloth.
  8. Serve hot. If you won't be serving the sauce right away, keep it covered and warm until you're ready to use it.

NOTE: You can use store-bought beef stock for making your espagnole, but as always, make sure to use a low-sodium or, if at all possible unsalted, stock. Anytime you're reducing a liquid with salt in it, you'll be concentrating the saltiness, which you might not want to do, especially if you plan to use the resulting sauce to make yet another sauce, which itself might be reduced. Better to season at the very end of cooking.

Roux ( sauce thickener) , its history and a recipe by the Bard Of Bat Yam , Poet Laureate of Zion Stepehen Darori


Roux



A white roux


A roux-based sauce


Roux (/ˈruː/) is flour and fat cooked together and used to thicken sauces. Roux is typically made from equal parts of flour and fat by weight. The flour is added to the melted fat or oil on the stove top, blended until smooth, and cooked to the desired level of brownness. Clarified butter, vegetable oils, bacon drippings or lard are commonly used fats. Roux is used as a thickening agent for gravy, sauces, soups and stews. It provides the base for a dish, and other ingredients are added after the roux is complete.

The fat is most often butter in French cuisine, but may be lard or vegetable oil in other cuisines. The roux is used in three of the five mother sauces of classical French cooking: béchamel sauce, velouté sauce, and espagnole sauce.

In Cajun cuisine, roux is made with bacon fat or oil instead of butter and cooked to a medium or dark brown color, which lends much richness of flavor, albeit less thickening power.

Central European cuisine uses lard (in its rendered form) or more recently vegetable oil instead of butter for the preparation of roux, which is called zápražka in Slovak, jíška in Czech, zasmażka in Polish, zaprška (запръжка) in Bosnian, Croatian, Serbian, and Macedonian, zaprazhka (запръжка) in Bulgarian, rántás in Hungarian and Mehlschwitze in German.

Japanese curry, or karē (カレー), is made from a roux made by frying yellow curry powder, butter or oil, and flour together. The French term roux has become a loanword in Japanese, rū (ルー), or more specifically karērū (カレールー, curry roux).

Roux (meyane has been used in Ottoman and Turkish cuisine since at least the 15th century.

Methods

The fat is heated in a pot or pan, melting it if necessary. Then the flour is added. The mixture is heated and stirred until the flour is incorporated, and then cooked until at least the point where a raw flour taste is no longer apparent and the desired colour has been reached. The final colour can range from nearly white to nearly black, depending on the length of time it is heated and its intended use. The end result is a thickening and flavoring agent.

Roux is most often made with butter as the fat base, but it may be made with any edible fat. For meat gravies, fat rendered from meat is often used. In regional American cuisine, bacon is sometimes rendered to produce fat to use in the roux. If clarified butter is not available, vegetable oil is often used when producing dark roux, since it does not burn at high temperatures, as whole butter would.
Types[edit]

Light (or "white") roux provides little flavor other than a characteristic richness to a dish, and is used in French cooking and some gravies or pastries throughout the world.

Darker roux are made by browning the flour in oil for a longer time, and add a distinct nutty flavor to a dish. They may be called "blond", "peanut-butter", "brown" or "chocolate" roux depending on their color. The darker the color, the richer the flavor.

Swabian (southwest German) cooking uses a darker roux for its "brown broth" (braune Brühe), which, in its simplest form, consists of nothing more than lard, flour, and water, with a bay leaf and salt for seasoning. Dark roux is often made with vegetable oils, which have a higher smoke point than butter, and are used in Cajun and Creole cuisine for gumbos and stews. The darker the roux, the less thickening power it has; a chocolate roux has about one-fourth the thickening power, by weight, of a white roux. A very dark roux, just shy of burning and turning black, has a distinctly reddish color and is sometimes referred to as "brick" roux.


A dish of staka served as part of a meze, Souda, Crete

Cretan staka

Staka (στάκα) is a type of roux particular to Cretan cuisine. It is prepared by cooking goat milk cream over a low flame with wheat flouror starch: the protein-rich part of the butterfat coagulates with the flour or starch and forms the staka proper, which is served hot. It is generally eaten by dipping bread in it, occasionally served over French fries.

The fatty part separates to form stakovoutyro, staka butter, which is kept for later use and has a faint cheesy flavor. Staka butter is used in Cretan pilaf (piláfi), commonly served at weddings.

Alternatives

Cooks can substitute for roux by adding a mixture of cold water and wheat flour to a dish that needs thickening, since the heat of boiling water will release the starch from the flour; however, this temperature is not high enough to eliminate the floury taste. A mixture of water and flour used in this way is colloquially known as “cowboy roux”, and in modern cuisine it is called a white wash. It is used infrequently in restaurant cooking, since it imparts a flavor to the finished dish that a traditional haute cuisine chef would consider unacceptable. Cornflour (known as cornstarch in the United States) can be used instead of wheat flour, as less is needed to thicken, it imparts less of the raw flour taste, and it also makes the final sauce more shiny.

As an alternative to roux, which is high in fat and very energy-dense, some Creole chefs have experimented with toasting flour without oil in a hot pan as an addition to gumbo. Cornstarch mixed with water (slurry), arrowroot, and other agents can be used in place of roux as well. These items do not contribute to the flavor of a dish, and are used solely for thickening liquids. More recently, many chefs have turned to a group of naturally occurring chemicals known as hydrocolloids. In addition to being flavorless and possessing the ability to act as a thickening agent, the resulting texture is thought by some to be superior,[citation needed] and only a small amount is required for the desired effect.